Boungiorno Bologna

Half an hour South of Ferrara is Bologna. Nestled on the edge of the valley it marks the start of the rolling hills to the South. It has the world’s oldest University, which dates back to 1088, and has been a significant settlement due to it’s position on two important roman roads that intersect the city. Today it’s known as the food capital of Italy. So where better to spend our first weekend?!

We left Ferrara at lunchtime on Friday below a beautiful blue sky without a single cloud in sight. Once on the autostrade (Italian motorway) the snow capped Apennine mountains soon came in to view and it didn’t take us long to reach the city. We were in our trusted camper van Murphy and had looked up places to park overnight on an app called Park4Night. It didn’t disappoint. We found a fantastic location where we could park for free with a lovely view over the city. A short walk later and we were amongst the hustle and bustle of Bologna. After sleepy Ferrara it was an assault on the senses. It took much more concentration to avoid the cars and mopeds whizzing up and down the narrow cobbled streets than dodging the odd Octogenarian on a rickety bicycle in Ferrara! Added to which your eyes were continuously being drawn up to admire the wonderful architecture and porticoes, all of which are wonderful shades of red in colour. The city boasts approximately 40km of porticoes, which are waiting for their UNESCO world heritage status to be approved. Due to the expanding population in 1100 as a result of the increasing number of students to the city, there was a lack of space within the city walls; so porticoes were built on to the sides of most buildings to increase living space. It also meant there were sheltered walkways all around the city to protect from the elements.

As it was such a beautiful day we decided to walk along the Portico di San Luca, an uninterrupted covered walkway that measures 3.8km in length and takes you from Porta Saragozza on the edge of the ancient city centre up to the Basilica di San Luca sat up on the hillside overlooking the city. The first stretch is lined with cafes, bars and shops and then it starts to climb up the hill! Having done very little exercise for the last year it was quite demanding but definitely worth it! The engineering behind it is incredible! In 1433 an image of the Madonna with Child was brought down from the hermitage on the top of the hill to the city in the hope that the rains that had fallen non stop for months would cease. As soon as the procession reached the gates to the city walls the rain did indeed stop. So every year since, the Madonna is brought down to the city in May to the central square. It was for this reason that the portico was built, to protect the annual procession. Construction began in 1655 and took 40 years to build. Each arch is numbered as you walk up the portico and there are 666 to symbolise the Madonna defeating the devil. It was also of particular interest for us as the 2019 Giro d’Italia (Italy’s version of the Tour de France) held it’s first stage on the ascent to the Basilica. The names of the riders were still visible on the road and watching the odd cyclist battle the huge gradient was a good source of entertainment as we walked up. Perhaps one day I’ll make it up there on two wheels!

We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the streets of Bologna, soaking up the hustle and bustle of the busy university town. If you dive down an alleyway off the main square you’ll find yourself in one of the best streets in Bologna, Via Pescherie Vecchie. There’s a vast array of bars, restaurants, cafes, market stalls and delis all spilling out in to this narrow little street. Taking it’s name from old fish markets you can easily while away the hours eating, drinking, people watching and eating some more down this street. (See my post called Food Glorious Food.)

The evening was spent in Signorvino overlooking Piazza Maggiore sipping wine and sharing a ‘tagliere’ or cutting board filled with local meats, cheeses and breads. (The vegetarianism that I embarked on last Summer has gone out the window……When in Rome and all that!)

After quite a noisy night (might have to rethink sleeping in the van in cities!) we were treated to a fabulous dawn over Bologna and after the obligatory coffee at the nearest bar we meandered to the top of the hill we were parked on and enjoyed the view of Bologna. The rest of the morning was spent walking around, drinking coffee in cute little cafes, poking our heads in unassuming churches (and always being taken aback by the ornate interiors) and working up an appetite until 11.30 when we met up with Paolo, a local guide for a food tour my wonderful, food-loving uni friends gave me as a leaving present. It was three hours of heaven! Tasting some gastronomical delights and learning about Bolognese food and history. I highly recommend Paolo as a guide so if you’re ever in Bologna look him up through the ‘WithLocals’ app.

I think it’s always a good sign if a destination leaves you feeling you’ve only scratched the surface and want more time to delve in to the city and really get to know the place better. So it was a perfect place to spend our first weekend and it’s a good job we’re only half an hour down the road!