Escape to Venice

This last week has been quite eventful one way or another! We’ve recently received the news that Mr BND has been offered a more senior position, which is absolutely fantastic and I couldn’t be prouder of him. But it does mean that the job here is no longer suitable. Oh dear! We suffered a few days of not knowing where we’re going to end up. (I say suffer, the sunshine, pasta, pizza and vino rosso have helped to ease the uncertainty!) It’s something I’ve managed to get used to more recently, plans changing. Previously I couldn’t handle anything putting a spanner in the works when it came to my well constructed plans. But it’s another positive outcome of recent events; being able to appreciate the flexibility of situations, be more spontaneous and living more in the moment rather then planning too far ahead. All attributes that are necessary when it comes to my husband’s line of work.

So after much speculation of where we’d end up and wondering how we’d breach the subject with everyone at home if a move back was imminent (an awkward option considering our rather large Italian-themed leaving party only a couple of weeks ago!) we discovered we are to head a few hours South to near Naples! Phew, still Italy at least. I feel a bit cheated of time in this lovely city and one of my initial thoughts was whether my new bike Giuseppe could come too! (Something that is still to be decided!) But disappointment was very short lived and excitement for our new destination soon grew. We’re set to move next month. So we decided to cram as much in as possible up here. (Visiting places I mean, not food into our mouths!)

It was quite a short conversation about where to spend our weekend, we decided to go to Venice. A controversial decision for some I’m sure considering the Corona Virus situation, but here life was carrying on as normal, there was no mass hysteria, no panic buying loo roll or empty shelves in the supermarkets so we decided to be sensible but to make the most of the situation. As a result we found ourselves on the 7:48 train to Venice on Saturday morning. It didn’t take long for the pan flat valley to give way to the undulating, lush countryside surrounding Montselice, an area studded with volcanic ‘plugs’ or mounds, a sight that made a refreshing change. From here the snow capped Alps loomed in to view and were visible from the islands of Venice, like reassuring arms encompassing the lagoon.

The weather was overcast and fresh, but the sun soon broke through filling the sky and canals alike with bright blue. We walked from the station to Piazza San Marco via the Rialto Bridge. The oldest of four bridges to cross the Grand Canal and by far the most spectacular. With a bridge dating back to 1181 on the same site, the current stone design was completed in 1591 after wooden predecessors either burnt down or collapsed. The two rows of shops on each side is a feature dating back to the early 15th century when a wooden structure was in place. The rents from the shops helped to pay for the maintenance of the bridge. The Rialto Bridge is one of the top tourist attractions in Venice, not that you’d have known it. I have been to Venice before, in May 2011, and don’t get me wrong I loved the place then, but it was just so, so busy. I remember being annoyed by the masses of tourists on the Rialto bridge, today there were just a handful.

We made our way to Piazzo San Marco, via the rabbit warren of alleyways that make up Venice. Every twist and turn brought new sights to be admired or something different to be exclaimed at. These snickets and jitties were all the more magical for being so deserted; at times we really felt like we had the place to ourselves. If you’ve been to Venice before you will know that the main attractions are signposted, meaning signs for S.Marco, Accademia or Rialto can be blindly followed in the safe knowledge that you’ll end up in the right location. But trying to find a specific restaurant or hotel can be slightly harder, resulting in many dead ends, about turns and a fun exploration of the labyrinth we found ourselves in.

One alleyway suddenly opened out on to Piazza San Marco and the Basilica di San Marco appeared like a giant above us. This fantastic building showcases the dominance of the Venetian Republic as aspects from all around the world influence it’s style and design. From copies of famous bronze horses from Constantinople to intricate gold mosaics that nestle amongst a wealth of columns, romanesque statues and coloured marble, this Basilica is surely one of Europe’s greatest buildings. The immense stature of the Basilica is reflected in the vastness of the Piazza it sits in. Usually this huge square is absolutely teeming with people but today it seems empty which only magnifies the size of the space. The three story buildings that line the square house cafes, restaurants and museums and all seem to sit so much taller without the thousands of people at their feet. It’s in one of these cafes that we found ourselves! We’d decided this weekend was to be a celebration of of the new job, so our next stop (and what was to follow) was justified!

A few months ago we watched a BBC programme called ‘Remarkable Places to Eat’, where, in one particular episode top chef Angela Hartnett took Fred Sirieix (from First Dates fame) to Venice, more specifically her favourite places to eat. One being Florian’s in Saint Mark’s square. An establishment akin to Venice as Harrods is to London, or Raffles to Singapore. So where else was there to go for a mid morning treat?! Cafe Florian, was originally known as ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’ or ‘Triumphant Venice’ when it opened in December 1720. But the locals began to refer to it as Florian’s after the name of the cafe’s founder Floriano Francesconi. Claiming to be one of the world’s oldest coffeehouses, Florian’s prides itself on it’s quality service in it’s timeless, elegant surroundings delivered by waiters in the smartest of liveries for which they have become well known. The food and drink is delivered on pristine china or in silver tea pots on silver trays and positioned correctly for the recipient. It wasn’t the cheapest elevenses we’ve ever had but boy was it good!

Back in the square and next to the Basilica is the Palazzo Ducale, or Doge’s Palace. This magnificent building is a wonderful mix of Byzantine, Gothic and Renaissance architecture and is from where the 120 Doges ruled the Venetian Republic from 697 to 1797. I am a big fan of history and architecture, so a couple of hours in this place was right up my street. Not one to turn down an audio guide we entered the palace and let the centuries of history wash over us. Highlights included the Golden staircase, the Bridge of Sighs and the most magnificent room of all, the Sala del Maggior Consiglio where the Great Council passed laws and ran the state. This awe inspiring room was the largest, unsupported room at the time of being built and the walls and ceilings are adorned with amazing pieces of art which are such a feast for the eyes. The focal point is the Doge’s throne on a raised stage, with a back drop of one of the largest oil paintings in the world, Tintoretto’s ‘Paradise’ from 1587. It’s breathtaking. The visit then left the state apartments to the contrasting prisons, the antithesis of the grandeur that’s all encompassing up until that point. These dark, dank rooms are accessed by crossing the famous Bridge of Sighs, where the few visitors, combined with the graffiti left by the convicts made for a much eerier visit than normal.

Back in the reassuring daylight we grabbed a piadina for lunch in the sunshine then bought a 24 hour ticket for the water bus. We put it to use straight away and took a boat up the Grand Canal back to the train station where we changed lines and went out to Murano, a smaller cluster of islands known for it’s glass. Due to the risk of fire and effects of the smoke from the many furnaces, the glass making industry was moved from Venice to Murano in 1291 and became known as Europe’s major glass producing centre at it’s height in the 15th and 16th centuries. If we thought Venice was quiet, Murano was even quieter. Our hearts went out to all the businesses who were trying to survive. We were mooching along the little canals and stumbled in to one inconspicuous little shop. Where we met Aldo, a chap no older than us, who sat at his little workbench, blow torch constantly lit, surrounded by the most gorgeous items of glass, tinkering away. We got chatting and he offered to give us a 30 minute demonstration for €30 where we could have whatever he made. So we spent the best part of an hour with Aldo, admiring how he took thin tubes of glass, turned them in to molten blobs, mixed colours, twisted, turned and blew them in to two wonderful creations for us; a beautiful wine stopper and a decorative hanging glass balloon. He had only mastered the craft 3 and a half years ago, so still had a little way to go to reach the lofty levels of a grand master but his skill and passion were incredible. He even managed to plug his phone in, select an appropriate Italian playlist, reject calls and briefly chat to his passing mate whilst manipulating the molten glass and 3,000 degree blow torch in to such beautiful objects! His shop is a treasure trove of glasses, ornaments, jewellery, goblets and decorations which have all been lovingly made by either him or his wife. A must visit if you find yourself on Murano.

Dusk was falling as we motored back on the bus to the main island, walking from the train station to our hotel through the less touristy area, we saw the local Venice come to life. Small squares were crammed full of children playing, whilst parents were overflowing from little wine bars and cafes. The buzzing atmosphere was infectious so we stopped for a glass of local wine in a bar and concocted a plan for that evening. Also, on Angela Hartnett’s list were two restaurants. One called the Trattoria Al Gatto Nero on the island of Burano, a small, traditional place famous for it’s risotto, tucked amongst the colourful fisherman’s houses of the island. I’d thought ahead and booked us in for lunch the following day. The weather was set to be really good and I was looking forward to seeing the beautiful coloured houses in the sunshine. But the other restaurant Angela and Fred visited was called Osteria alle Testiere, a tiny fish restaurant tucked down an alleyway north of St Marks square where the chef Bruno concocts his daily menu after he visits the fish market each morning. It doesn’t get any fresher! Knowing this place’s reputation it was with little hope that we phoned to see if we could have a table that evening. Miraculously we managed to get in! It didn’t disappoint, we had the most delicious fish dishes we’d ever had, every mouthful was so fresh and tasty, made from simple, high quality ingredients. All washed down with a delicious bottle of light red wine. (No letters of complaint please, I know it should be white with fish!) The restaurant itself is tiny, seating about 2 dozen at max capacity but the kitchen is even smaller! There isn’t room to swing a cat! So the fact they produce such wonderful dishes is even more impressive.

We had a very pleasant stroll back to the hotel, taking in some of the landmarks in the dark. In the shadows and half light the mammoth buildings were even more imposing. We’d booked to stay at Palazzetto Pisani which is on the Grand Canal and was once a luxurious Palace owned by the prominant Pisani family and dates back to 1614. Upon entering the hotel, it’s like stepping back in time, the building is full of antique furniture, mirrors, gilded candelabras and luxurious tapestries. We’d booked the Doges suite which boasted a gold leaf headboard, expensive wall fabrics and a huge traditional mirror, tarnished from the years of use. Apparently, scenes from the film Casanova with Heath Ledger had been filmed in this particular room. It was wonderful. And best of all it was the price of a Travelodge near Heathrow, I know where I’d rather be!

The following morning we woke to the BBC news that 16 million people in Northern Italy had been put in to lock down, Venice included. So rather than risk getting stuck there we made the decision to leave that morning earlier than planned. Burano and the risotto would have to wait for another time. It was very odd reading in the media how all movement in to and out of Venice had been restricted whilst we were on a train doing just that! There were no queues at the train station, no mass panic, no checks, life was just carrying on as normal. And later that day we went to the supermarket in Ferrara where everything was as it should be, no one stock piling and no empty shelves. I’m finishing writing this on Tuesday, and as of today the government have restricted movement in to and out of all areas in Italy. So we won’t be getting many more visits crammed in after all. They’ve also closed all schools, museums, public events etc and told all cafes and restaurants to only open from 6am to 6pm and to enforce a 1 m rule between customers. But as I type this I’m sat in a cafe (I need the WiFi, and coffee!) and although it is quieter, there are still people going about their everyday business, shops are still open and people shopping. My heart really goes out to all the little businesses, like Aldo, who are so reliant on tourist trade, it’s going to be tough for them. Despite the risks I’m pleased we managed to squeeze in a trip to Venice, I’ve a feeling it was a once in a lifetime weekend!