The best cycling hotel in Italy?

Whilst researching our road trip to the coast we heard about the town of Cesenatico, the home of the famous cyclist Marco Pantani, and soon decided it was to be added to our list of destinations. I stumbled across the Lungomare Bike Hotel online and I reckon if Pinarello made bike hotels, it would be just like this! You could be fooled by the bright and colourful exterior into thinking it’s just another one of the many hotels along this stretch of the Adriatic coast, but you’d be wrong. This one definitely stands out. The passion, joy and sense of family literally permeates out through the lobby door.

Our most recent experience of cycling accommodation was staying with a wonderful couple in a home stay in the Pyrenees, where the personal touch made all the difference. So I was reluctant as to how a hotel could do the same. However, I needn’t have worried. I’ve never received such a warm and welcoming reception than the one we were greeted with here. The hotel is a family run, third (soon to be fourth) generation business, a fact that’s evident in all aspects. The family is the Pasolini family and we had the most contact with Francesca, who runs the business with the help of her sister Silvia, Silvia’s husband and son Filippo who is currently studying hospitality at university. We also met Giuliano and Primula, Francesca’s parents, who were so integral in starting this business in the 1950’s. It’s a real family affair and they all have a wonderful passion for cycling that’s so infectious you just can’t wait to get out on the road! The ‘family’ doesn’t stop there either, the wonderful members of staff who looked after us so well obviously make up the extended family of the hotel and everyone seemed so happy and content in their work.

We were booked in for two nights on the ‘Easy Bike’ package in a sea view junior suite. The package included half board and full use of the hotel’s amenities, which includes a beautiful heated pool and a spa.

Before going to our room we checked our bikes in to their luxury accommodation too! As we were buzzed through to the secure bike room we were blown away by what met us. There were hooks for hundreds of bikes to be hung up and locked, there was a work station area with pumps and tools for tinkering away and there was even a bike wash area complete with shampoo, lube and rags. The cycling jerseys and memorbilia hanging from the ceiling finished it off perfectly. If you’re reading this and not a cycling fan then the impact of this room will be minimal but for cycling geeks this is the ultimate bike room! There were also a number of beautiful Pinarello Dogma F10’s hanging along one side of the wall which are available to hire.

We were as equally impressed with our room too. We had a beautiful, airy junior suite on the third floor with fantastic views of the sea from two balconies. All the added touches that one associates with a luxury hotel were included, fluffy robes, luxury shower and bath with toiletries and as we were on the bike package we were also given a musette and bidon each too, which was a lovely touch. The bed was a gigantic round affair which swivelled so you could make the most of the views without having to leave. A very cool, modern touch were hundreds of colour changing fibre optic strands hanging from the ceiling which added a bit of pizzazz to the suite. It was the perfect room to come back to after a day’s cycling to unwind and relax.

The cycling itself was also fantastic, with two rides over our stay. The first day had seen a wet start so we went out in the afternoon instead. Andrea was our guide, a local who is the epitome of an Italian professional. Obviously a very good cyclist, very cool but also down to earth and helpful. That afternoon he showed us the best local sights as well as imparting local knowledge. Stops included the Pantani statue on the sea front, Cesenatico centre (for more information see my post Three gems of South Romagna) and Cesena, another beautiful, medieval town and home to the Melatesta Library, the first public library in Italy. The ride included a 5 km climb to wake the legs up, which wasn’t the easiest after the delicious lunch and accompanying wine! 32 miles later we found ourselves back at the hotel having worked up another appetite for that night’s dinner.

The next morning saw a drier start and after a hearty breakfast we set off again with Andrea. Normally, the hotel would be full of cyclists and there would be five groups heading out to do varying distances and speeds. The routes and profiles are all advertised on the rider’s wall in the hotel and riders sign up the night before by writing their names on the sheet; a great system. As it was just us though, Andrea had planned a perfect route, having gauged our ability the day before. Being on the coast means most rides include a nice flat warm up to get the legs spinning before going as hilly as you wish. We set off, enjoying just following a wheel and not having to worry about looking at directions on the garmin, consulting the map and worrying if the roads were suitable for cyclists. It took away all the stress and drama and we could just ride. First stop was Santarcangelo di Romagna, a hilltop town perched atop a rock at the start of the rolling hills. Due to the large market we had to cycle up a steep street to get to the old centre but were duly rewarded with beautiful views and narrow cobbled streets that have hardly changed in centuries, it was like stepping back in time. After a bit more flat riding we got to Lo Stadone where we hit a beautiful 3 km climb which was a bit punchy to start with but then levelled out. A beautiful descent and a flat stretch offered some respite before another 2 km easier climb to the town of Longiano with a fantastic castle offering commanding views for miles. We stopped here for the required cafe stop, a chance to soak up the sun and find out a bit more about Andrea. He told us how he used to race until the age of 18, has been leading rides for twenty years and also coaches children. The cycling world has changed so much though, gone are the days guests just go for a ride for enjoyment, when distance and speed is dictated by feel. Nowadays data has taken over, with some people moaning about cycling 5 km more or less than advertised, climbing 100 metres more than the profile said and chasing Strava segments; another sad case of when technology can take over and the real passion and enjoyment is lost.

The return route took us to the other side of the valley for the best view of the castle and town, a bit more of a climb and then an absolutely wonderful descent on wide, meandering roads that slowly wiggled down the hillside. A fast-paced run back in to the hotel via the Pantani family villa and Piadineria ended a fabulous ride.

What will stick most in my mind about these two rides is the fragrant smell of cut grass and gorgeous views of hilltop towns that seemed to glow in the sunlight. Andrea was a superb guide, encouraging and patient when needed but happy to push on slightly so you ended with a sense of achievement. On the climbs he left me to battle the pain whilst remaining nearby at all times describing the upcoming ramps when appropriate. I know they were small hills compared to some but considering the little cycling I’ve done over the last year and the toll treatment has taken, these rides filled me with confidence and I feel able to get back to where I once was.

The afternoon was spent by the pool and walking on the beach followed by drinks in a nearby bar and yet another dinner at the hotel, I particularly loved the fresh seafood that was on offer everyday.

The next morning we were treated to the most beautiful sunrise with the flaming ball slowly creeping up over the millpond-like sea. It was too good to go back to bed so I went for a jog along the beach followed by some yoga and a paddle, a great way to end our stay.

Thank you to all the staff at the Lungomare Bike Hotel that made our stay so wonderful, it’s just a shame we couldn’t stay for longer. Whilst I obviously can’t comment on whether this is the best cycling hotel in Italy, it definitely has to be up there. I’m sure there’s no better in the region and if you’re after a mix of beach and hills then it’s perfect. This stretch of the coast is second only to Florida for hotels per square mile so you’ve got to be good to stand out and these guys definitely do that! If you like riding your bike on beautiful roads, eating delicious food and drinking good wine then this place is for you! We shall definitely be back.

Links

• Lungomare Website
• Strava Links: Day 1 , Day 2