Freedom at last! Here in Italy we have recently returned to ‘Yellow Zone’ meaning travel around the region and to some other regions is now allowed; as well as restaurants and cafes reopening for outdoor dining…praise the Lord! So we’ve ventured slightly further afield than we have in a long time for some much needed paddling!
One very calm, sunny morning we took to the water in our inflatable kayak with our friend Ben on his Stand Up Paddle board. Peggy donned her newest accessory, a very fetching dog life jacket with a useful handle on the back for quick extraction if she decided to go overboard! We set off on an exploration of the coast line heading towards Naples. To say it was beautiful is an understatement. The water was as calm as a mill pond, crystal clear and an intense turquoise colour due to the cloudless sky. This particular coastline is a paradise of caves, crags, arches, islands and stacks with so much to look at around every corner. We paddled in to deep caves that seemed to disappear forever in to the rock and past rocky promontories that had been pounded by centuries of surf, shaping them in to monster-like creations towering over the still waters, showcasing their geological timeline for all to see. The best version of a geography lesson one could have.
We soon entered a bay between the mainland and a small island called Isola la Gaiola, which contained some abandoned buildings, but with steps, windows and arches carved in to the stone the whole island seemed a fortress looming out of the water. Between this and the mainland we were treated to the most spectacular view of Vesuvius, perfectly framed between a sea wall and a statue of Padre Pio (an Italian Priest and Saint.)
From here the shore became more inhabited as the severe cliffs dropped off and access from the road above became easier. A perfect spot to build your summer residence…a line of thought obviously shared by the Romans as we came across the tumble down ruins of the 1st Century BC Palazzo degli Spiriti. The unassuming, dilapidated appearance of this water front structure only makes it’s history even more fascinating. It is all that remains of the Nymphaeum ( a monument consecrated to the nymphs, in this case water nymphs) that made up part of the villa complex built by Publio Vedio Pollione who served Emperor Augustus. He decided to retire to this part of the coast known as Pausilypon, meaning ‘relief from pain’ or ‘respite from danger.’ Pollione also built a huge theatre, an odeon and spa complex on the sprawling estate. The building’s name derives from local Fishermen stories of hearing ghostly moaning and harp playing coming from the building at night. Something I’m quite pleased I wasn’t aware of as we paddled in to one of the arched sea vaults at the base of the building! After the excitement of entering a two thousand year old Roman ruin we needed some refreshment so stopped on a small rocky island for coffee and biscuits!
The journey continued around the headland where we enjoyed views of large water front houses nestled in to the rock and vegetation. We passed the last headland where in front of us lay the huge Bay of Naples, we could see all along the lungomare to Castel del’Ovo. Once we turned round to head back it soon became apparent that the easy paddling wasn’t just due to the calm waters, there had been a slight tail wind. Which as the sky clouded over and we headed back up the coast became quite a strong headwind! We stopped on the way back in the pretty little harbour of Marechiaro, a colourful collection of buildings tumbling down to the clear waters. We enjoyed a beer on the small quay amongst locals, whilst Peggy had a whale of a time making new friends!
The paddle back definitely took longer and was more of a workout but the sleeping puppy curled up on my knee would testify to the fact it was definitely worth it! We’d been out for four and half hours and paddled six miles by the end, a tiring but truly wonderful day out!
Brand New Day 