‘Climb more mountains’ is a line from one of my favourite poems “The Station.” A poem about enjoying the journey of life and not focusing on the destination. This is one piece of advice that I followed this last weekend.
(The poem also says ‘Eat more ice cream’….another rule I take very seriously!)
If you’re reading this as a fellow a cyclist, then you’ll understand the logic behind our trip; however if you don’t cycle then perhaps the only conclusion you could draw is that we are absolutely barmy! A fellow cyclist and friend from here in Naples was kind enough to organise a trip to Bormio in Lombardy. He was as keen (read mental) to conquer one of the all time greatest climbs. A classic that regularly features in the Giro d’Italia. The Everest of the cycling world, the Stelvio Pass. It is the highest paved road in Italy, and the second highest in the whole of the Alps. It has been declared as the “greatest driving road in the world’ by Top Gear and is a mecca for motorbikes and cyclists who all share the same aim: to make it to the top where the altimeter reads 2,757 m or 9,045 ft.
So it was for this reason alone that we found ourselves in the clapped out community minibus on the road North, the back crammed with three bikes, cycling kit and enough energy bars to power a small village! With our friend’s wife Caroline accompanying us in the role of chief supporter and very generously helping with the driving we reached our destination 11 hours after setting off! Having skied in the area for the last 10 years luckily our friends knew it well; albeit it looking less white and more green! For them there’s only one place to stay, Hotel Alpi and Golf. This beautiful, traditional Alpine hotel is located on the edge of Bormio, surrounded by greenery and picturesque views of the mountains. It’s ran by the Cantoni family, Michele and his wife Lara with the help of Michele’s father Alfredo. For our companions it was like seeing family again when we finally arrived, not having visited for two years due to Covid the reunion was lovely to witness. We were also treated to the warmest of welcomes and to anyone staying here I can honestly say it has that feeling of ‘returning home.’ The building is a glorious mix of traditional wood with modern accents to give it that luxurious feel. Walking in to the bar after so long on the road was like receiving a lovely, warm hug! The rooms have absolutely everything you could wish for and the views off the mountains are just the icing on the cake. After a quick change we headed down for a drink and an absolutely delicious meal of hearty, local dishes that were beautifully presented. With what was in store for the next day we restrained from ordering more wine and had an early night!
The following morning saw the departure of the previous days rain clouds and in their place bright blue sky and sunshine. An absolutely perfect day for cycling in the mountains. As we worked our way through the generous and tasty breakfast spread, for me the nerves were kicking in slightly. The challenge that lay ahead was gigantic and the constant reel of thoughts kept whirring through my mind; ‘I’m not fit enough to do this. I don’t want to fail. What if it’s too steep in places. I’m not confident enough to do the descent. etc etc’ But I distracted myself with getting ready and before I knew it we were in the bus, on the way out of town. The quintessential Stelvio climb is actually from the opposite side to where we were staying in Bormio, starting in the town of Prato allo Stelvio. So we were faced with the dilemma of how to get to the start. We could have cycled from our hotel but it would have meant doing nearly the whole amount of climbing, to descend, then go back up. Whilst we’re somewhat mentally unhinged we weren’t quite at that stage. So Caroline very kindly offered to brave the hair-raising roads and drive us up to the Swiss border where we could start on the descent down the Umbrail Pass, in to Switzerland, down the valley, back in to Italy and round to the bottom of the climb. A choice we were pleased with by the end of the day! So after a group photo we bid farewell and the three of us set off on a long, chilly, twisting descent to Santa Maria. As we flew (some of us more than others) down the mountain the rocky, craggy peaks gave way to rolling, green pastures with clear, cascading streams guiding the way. We met the main road at the pretty town of Santa Maria and thought we’d rolled on to a film set. The building’s facades were covered in decorative paintings, framing windows and doors and beautifully finished off with window box after window box of brightly coloured flowers. We then had the joy of a rolling, meandering road down the remainder of the valley, much to the relief of my brake pads! We took a right hand turn and before we knew it we’d covered 21 miles and had barely turned the pedals! That soon changed. We took the final right hand turn on to the SS38 and wished each other good luck as the climb to the Stelvio Pass began. What happened next was both very unexpected and slightly demoralising. We’d just passed the sign marking the start of the climb, informing us of the painful 24 km that lay ahead, when we were overtaken. That in itself can be demoralising but spirits sunk even lower when we realised the guy who had just flown past in the blink of an eye only had one leg! Chapeau to him! Our smiles were soon restored however, as we passed a couple of guys from a dutch cycling group, the name of which they had blazoned across their backs….Willies!
The first few kilometres weren’t too bad, at an average gradient of 5% a rhythm could be found and the views of the pine covered lower slopes were a welcome distraction. After the town of Trafoi however, things got serious! After just ticking off the first hairpin bend I realised there was another 47 to go! “Just keep pedalling.” The constant mantra going round and round my mind. The average gradient then kicked up to 8% with steeper sections pitching up along the way. The pine trees opened up to reward us with views of the snow capped mountains the opposite side of the valley and as we wound further and further up one of the many glaciers of this area sat proudly nestled in amongst it’s rocky peaks. Conversation between us decreased as the pain increased and soon the altitude took effect, with it being harder to catch our breath; again the scenery helped to distract us and I remember a mix of emotions when turning one corner in particular. The hairpins are numbered in reverse order so you know how many you have remaining to the top. Just before number 24, the road rounds a shoulder, the trees diminish to ground hugging bushes and the crowning glory of this climb can be witnessed. The zigzagging road disappears up the mountain to where you can just make out the top of the pass. The end is in sight, but it’s such a long way still, but look at the road, what an impressive feat of engineering! All contrasting thoughts whirring through my brain at the same time. And so the last slog began, my legs had just decided they’d had enough of a warm up and I started to feel quite good. I could drink in the views of the soaring birds, the colourful wild flowers and the chirping marmots darting amongst the tufts of grass. The mountainous peaceful, atmosphere was somewhat dampened by the roaring of motorbikes and super cars as they came flying by. But annoyance turned to acceptance because on a road like this, who could blame them.
The hairpin numbers finally fell to single figures and a very long time after beginning the climb we finally made it to the top! We did it! We were greeted by what can only be described as a party atmosphere! The top of the pass was alive with hustle and bustle. There was a row of souvenir shops selling everything from cycling jerseys to cuddly toy marmots, there were restaurants, cafes and street vendors selling hot dogs and pretzels. Miraculously though it was still sunny, with only a slight wind so after the obligatory photos we enjoyed an alfresco lunch of sausage and chips!
There was just the small matter of getting back down to Bormio. I don’t know who was more nervous, me on my bike or Caroline in the minibus! Luckily we all safely made it back down and at certain points I even found myself with a smile plastered on my face. (Before being quickly replaced with a frown of concentration as I navigated another hairpin and a couple of narrow tunnels!) It was such a wonderful feeling cruising back through Bormio to the hotel, where we were greeted with congratulations by Michele and Alfredo. We’d ridden 50 miles with 6,000 ft of climbing.
Great… job done….wine can flow and achievements could be celebrated over dinner you’d think………no not just yet. That moment would have to be put on hold for 24 hours as the trip’s instigator had other plans! We went for a wander round the picturesque historic centre of Bormio and enjoyed a well deserved gelato. Needless to say the risotto and lamb shank dinner that night was another exquisite meal but we held back on the wine because there was more cycling to be done. I had always been unsure of whether I would ride the following day but having decided life is too short not to give it a go I found myself agreeing to roll out the next morning.
We left Bormio and started climbing straight away. The day’s ride had two main climbs: the Gavia and the Mortirolo, both regulars with cycling pros on the Giro d’Italia. Along with the Stelvio all three were so different but equally as beautiful. The first few miles from Bormio to Santa Caterina weren’t too bad but then the percentage kicked up and the hard work started in earnest. The road was much quieter than that of the day before and much narrower giving a wilder, more authentic feel to the climb. Again we wound up and up the valley, hairpin after hairpin until the vegetation reduced and you could see the road twist round a headland ahead. There was one section in particular where I thought I’d have to get off but I kept the pedals turning and then it finally eased, making a 5% slope feel like down hill! We pushed on to the top where we were greeted by the unexpected sight of Lago Bianco and round the corner the restaurant that marks the top of the pass. We’d conquered the first one. I contemplated turning round and going back down but determined not to quit after coming this far we layered up and ventured down the other side of the pass. The following few miles were not enjoyable! Due to the harsh and wild location the road surface was terrible, the road was so narrow and to top it off there was no crash barrier for large sections; just a long drop down! With my mind playing out all sorts of scenarios I gritted it out and finally made it to the point where it improved; I’d never been so pleased to see a white line in the middle of the road and a barrier! My braver cycling partners were ever so supportive and patient.
There was one large hill left to conquer and that was the Mortirolo, a shorter but steeper climb than the previous two, it was certainly the sting in the tail. I can’t tell you much about this climb as the pain had set in, head was down and it was a matter of grinding it out until it was over; you could probably have crawled up quicker than I was going! Mainly in trees the scenery wasn’t as impressive as the previous climbs but the road was really quiet and felt wild and remote. There were tears from me at one point when the pain in my back and feet was just too much, I got off the bike and everything had just locked up. But after giving myself a talking too and a hug from Mr BND I somehow conquered the following miles of incline to reach the top! The rest of the ride was just a matter of getting back and after the descent we found a pristine, smooth cycle lane that took us along the river in to Bormio. With mountains as the backdrop it felt like we were being welcomed with a standing ovation! 66 miles and 9,400 ft of climbing later we made it back!
I can honestly say that day was the hardest thing I’ve ever done. Even as I write this four days later my back still hurts and my muscles are sore but it was worth every pedal stroke, every muscle twinge and every tear drop. It was one of the best weekends ever! I couldn’t have done it without the wonderful support of our friends and my husband to whom I’m so grateful. When we moved to Italy 18 months ago I could barely cycle up the smallest of hills without nearly dying. Looking back it was something that I was angry about, the cancer and resulting treatment had stolen that from me and I couldn’t see me getting back to where I’d been. But this last weekend has taught me there are no bounds, anything is possible and to never give up! (All of the cliches!)
The added highlight of meeting such warm and friendly people such as Michele and Alfredo really made the weekend. Bormio is a gorgeous town, well worth a visit whatever time of the year and if you do go I cannot recommend Hotel Alpi and Golf highly enough. We will certainly be back……. There’s more mountains to climb!
Brand New Day 