What a disaster the last day turned out to be!
Rain was forecast for later on in the day but being orographic we were hoping it may be wrong and likely to change. Nevertheless we set off with high spirits, slightly weary legs and very sore undercarriages and made our way to the end of the valley. We managed four miles until another problem arose. The road was closed. We ignored the signs hoping we could get through but to no avail. After consulting the map we were faced with two route choices. Firstly, the main roads, most of which were dual carriageway and disappeared off into miles of tunnels. After the first day’s escapades we soon ruled out that option. The second option was to take the small, regional roads which would mean an extra 50 miles on top of the 50 miles we’d already planned. Which by itself wouldn’t be too much of a problem but combined with the poor forecast and the fact said detour included a couple of mountain passes we declined that option too! Luckily we were near a train line with a train arriving soon. So we took the train to Spoleto from where we could cycle back to Norcia.
The climb out of Spoleto was absolutely stunning, six miles of winding, quiet roads with fantastic views. The descent the other side was equally beautiful as we hugged the side of a remote, wild valley dropping 2,000 ft to the valley below.
We stopped for a coffee and a much needed boost of chocolate before continuing up the valley. We were nearly back, only 10 miles to go, when the heavens opened! Within minutes there was rain pounding down from above and coming back up at us from the ground. We were absolutely drenched, complete with socks squelching inside shoes. I’ve never cycled in such torrential rain, it was hard to see the road ahead. But with only a few miles left we battled on and eventually made it to our wonderful little Agriturismo at Norcia.
After 5 days, 285 miles, 17,500 ft of climbing and no dog chases we had made it back. An hour or so of rain was a small price to pay for such a fantastic trip. I really felt like we’d experienced this wonderful region to the full. Connecting with the people, tasting the food and drinking in the scenery. It really is the best way to travel and such a fitting way to end our time in Italy.
Despite being blighted by covid restrictions since the first day in country, I really don’t think we could have had a better Italian experience. We were lucky enough to see an empty St Mark’s Square in Venice, stand alone atop Vesuvius, pedal the deserted road of the Amalfi Coast and so much more. All these wonderful memories will be treasured forever. Whilst the downside of covid had it’s tough times, like not seeing loved ones, the lifelong friendships made along the way more than make up for it. It was an absolute blast. Best of all we’ve got a gorgeous, fluffy souvenir. Grazie Italia.
Brand New Day 