A New Pope – History in the Making

Once again it’s been a while since I’ve written anything but recent events here in Rome have compelled me to document the afternoon of May 7th, so future me can’t possibly forget.

With the news of Pope Francis’s death on Monday, 21st April, there was a sombre atmosphere in the city. However, with the conclusion of the funeral arrangements, this soon morphed into a sense of anticipation as all eyes turned to the Sistine Chapel for the traditional conclave. I’m not a Catholic, or in fact particularly religious at all. However, over recent months, my interest in the Catholic world has increased. One of the tours I regularly carry out is called the Three Basilicas, where we visit three of the four papal basilicas in Rome. These are Saint Mary Major, Saint Paul’s outside the walls and Saint John’s in the Lateran. Needless to say I’ve learnt a huge amount about these beautiful basilicas, which all have an open holy door as we are currently in a Jubilee year. All three sanctuaries are distinctly different and have very varied architectural styles, despite all dating back to the fourth century. Because I spend so much time in these beautiful places (sometimes walking through a holy door up to 24 times a week!) where I’m surrounded by tombs of past popes or regaling the lives of saints, I couldn’t help but be drawn to the current situation at the Vatican.

Conclave started on May 7th. The cardinals entered the Sistine Chapel in the afternoon, the usual prayers were recited and the famous words “extra omnes” were announced. Meaning all extra personnel were to leave. Whilst it was very unlikely white smoke would be seen on the first vote we decided to go down and watch anyway. I wanted to see some smoke, no matter what the colour, to witness a small piece of history. So off we went to St Peters. Well Via delle Conciliazione to be precise, the road leading up to St Peter’s square from Castel Sant’Angelo. I met my friend Emma, who lives nearby and we stood soaking in the excited atmosphere for a couple of hours. People started to get restless, quizzical expressions were exchanged amongst the crowd, what was the delay? The rumour mill soon started grinding. But due to a prior engagement, we had to call time and leave. The black smoke eventually appeared soon after 9pm.

The following day I had a tour so I couldn’t return for the morning session. It was black smoke again. Mid-afternoon approached, it was hot, I was tired, the hours of waiting the evening before didn’t compel me to try again. However, something told me I should go. So I grabbed Peggy and we cycled down in to town. I felt sure it was still too early for a result but I didn’t care, the atmosphere was so lovely and jovial and I was just happy to witness smoke of any colour. By the time I’d made it through the security check, it was about 5pm; I joined the thousands of other people milling about in St Peter’s Square. People were sat leaning against the barriers, gathered in the slither of shadow cast by the giant obelisk or some even sat cross-legged playing cards. I also assumed the latter position right in the middle next to a gorgeous Mexican family. Their little two-year-old boy Nicolas and Peggy were soon firm friends. It always amazes me how easy it is to overcome a language barrier, the language of laughter is truly universal. He really was the cutest little boy and he was so gentle with Peggy. His father told me how they were on a big European trip and like so many other people had decided to see if they could also witness some smoke emerge from the chimney. An hour or so of sitting in the sun and playing games soon disappeared. 6pm ticked by and we all assumed we were between the two afternoon votes by now, I’d resigned myself to the fact that it would likely be another hour at least. I’d just glanced down at my phone when shrieking and cheering broke out all around. I looked up at the sight of plumes of white smoke pouring out of the chimney high up on the roof of the Sistine Chapel. Everyone jumped to their feet and started clapping and cheering. They’d done it. On the fourth vote, they’d elected a new Pope. Even Peggy joined in the celebrations by barking furiously! The emotion was palpable. I found myself choking up and tears started flowing. The little boy was in his Dad’s arms and we all hugged. It didn’t matter that I wasn’t there with anyone else, we were all witnessing history being made together.

The relaxed ambience had changed instantly, people started rushing forwards towards St Peter’s Basilica to get the best view of the balcony. Soon there wasn’t a spare inch of space as more and more people rushed to fill the piazza to glimpse the new Pope for the first time. I found myself joining the flow forward and before long Peggy and I assumed a new position. She in my arms whilst we all stood and waited. After about an hour the balcony doors finally opened, an announcement was made which no one could really hear and the new Pope emerged on to the balcony. From the surrounding Italians I heard “Chi e?” “Who is it?” and finally someone shouted “Americano”. Due to the lack of phone signal no one could consult the news channels. But it didn’t matter, we listened to Pope Leo XIV’s address, cheered and clapped in the right places and before long Peggy and I were swept along with the joyous hoards of people leaving St Peter’s square.

What an incredible event to witness! I consider myself very lucky to have been there and I’m so thankful I listened to the inner voice telling me to go. Pope Francis has been entombed in Saint Mary Major, the first basilica on my tour. I’ve already taken many clients past his beautiful, simple tomb and I’ll undoubtedly take many more. I hope for the sake of the world, Pope Leo XIV continues his great work. It was clear, even to an atheist, that in St Peter’s Square on that Thursday afternoon, there were no wars, there wasn’t an ounce of hate, there was only unbridled love and joy; and that’s something really quite beautiful.