Puglia Road Trip – Part 2

Castel del Monte

On our way to our next destination we went via Lucera, another pretty Puglian town which was once a prosperous Roman centre dating back to the 4th century BC. It’ s home to the Swabian-Angevin Fortress. This 13th century reinforced fort is huge! It’s pentagonal walls measure 1km in circumference and are interspersed with 24 towers! Sitting on the highest point for miles around it’s sheer size is tantamount to how powerful this fascinating town used to be. Unfortunately, like most lesser known Italian historical sites it isn’t particularly well maintained, but for a very small fee you can go inside and up one of the towers to really appreciate the size of this settlement. The castle was built by Frederick II, who after being excommunicated by the Pope in the thirteenth century, decided to boost his supporters by importing 20,000 Sicilian Arabs to Lucera, a bold move by the Christian monarch as he allowed them to build mosques and practice their religion less than 300km away from Rome. Their prosperity was short lived however, as in 1300 Charles II killed most of the Muslim population and built the Duomo on the site of their largest mosque. Lucera itself has a lovely old town centre, with sand coloured buildings and smooth flagstones underfoot, worn from centuries of use. It’s a town with such a fascinating history but so far removed from the tourist trail that it was a delight to visit.

Our home for the next two nights was Agriturismo Sei Carri, near to Castel del Monte. This restaurant was tucked away at the end of a track and also offered camping spaces with electricity and a lovely view of the castle itself perched on top of it’s hill. Castel del Monte is a geometric, otherworldly looking structure perched atop a hill which radiates an omnipresence for miles around. This UNESCO World heritage site is shrouded in mystery due to the fact that no one knows why Frederick II built this perfectly octagonal structure; no one has ever lived in it, it’s in the middle of nowhere miles from any towns or settlements and has no defensive characteristics one would expect from a 13th century castle. But striking it is! We spent our first afternoon there walking from the campsite, across the fields, through the trees and up the hill to the castle itself. Due to our chosen route we managed to avoid the crowds until we were up at the top, where they’d swarmed to see this beautiful structure. We walked back via the road where we came across a pack of stray dogs, who after their initial barking, luckily didn’t seem too fussed by us. That night, the view through the mozzie net was of the twinkling lights of Trani far below at the coast and the castle all lit up atop it’s perch, even more mysterious and intriguing in the darkness.

  • Castel del Monte
  • The view of the castle from our camping spot
  • The restaurant

We were treated to another wonderful sun rise where the bright orange ball slowly crept up over the horizon alongside the castle, painting the sky with such gorgeous hues. We’d decided to go for a bike ride that day, so wanted to leave early. The plan was to hit the road for seven o’clock so we could get back for our lunch reservation at half past one. We set off in the cool morning air down the track to the main road. The memory of the pack of dogs soon came back to me and I realised we had to cross their path, however, as they seemed quite calm whilst we were on foot the previous day I wasn’t too concerned………..but that soon changed! They saw us approaching and despite our coaxing and gentle words promising not to hurt them they decided to take umbrage with our bikes. Mr BND was slightly ahead so ran the gauntlet first, like a pack of hyenas they preyed on the weakest at the back and before I knew it I was pedalling as fast as I’ve ever pedalled with snarling, snapping teeth right on by back wheel, my husband’s shouts of ‘pedal faster!’ being drowned out by the animals and the blood pumping in my ears. My plaintive cries soon turned in to aggressive shouts which had absolutely no effect whatsoever and finally they gave up the chase and all that was left was the sound of our hugely increased breathing! I think it was the most harrowing experience ever. We spent the rest of the ride flinching at every stray dog we came across, preparing to put our sprint technique to the test, but all the others didn’t bat an eyelid. Talk about unusual training methods!

Sunrise at Castel del Monte

Our route took us through Parco Nazionale dell’Alta Murgia which wasn’t quite what we were expecting. It was a vast, arid landscape with hardly any towns or villages, little shelter and moor-like countryside. Whilst being quite striking and pretty in it’s own right it had a lunar atmosphere to it and wasn’t really conducive to a 65 mile bike ride in the heat. Particularly on the way back when we had a 5 mile climb to contend with and hardly any water left! We did visit two gorgeous towns though, the other side of the National Park, Altamura and Gravina in Puglia; the former is famous in Puglia for it’s bread and the latter has a higgledy, piggledy historical centre beside a gorge which is bridged by an ancient aqueduct. Both towns were a welcome relief to an otherwise quiet and remote ride.

  • Inside Gravina’s old town
  • Gravina’s symbol the cola cola. A terrcotta whistle.
  • The bell tower in Altamura
  • Exploring the old, narrow streets
  • Gravina in Puglia
  • Altamura’s Duomo
  • Aqueduct in Gravina

Of course we also had the dogs to contend with on our inbound journey. But we had a plan of action! We’d decided we’d go up to the castle, where Mr BND would go off piste and ride the downhill gravel tracks we walked the previous day to circumvent the dogs, pick up the van and meet me (a strictly tarmac lover) at the end of the road to ensure my safe return. A plan which was not executed as well as it was conjured up. The inevitable puncture occurred and then on his return to the campsite, (whilst I’m waiting at the end of the road like a preying mantis ready to leg it out of there at the first sign of our canine foes) we realise I have the van keys! I really thought this day couldn’t have gone any worse. So I hide my bike and begin the walk down the road armed with a stick (like that would do any good), finally though, our luck turns and a car pulled off the main road which I flagged down and in very garbled ‘Englitalian’ try and convey my sticky situation to the four bewildered faces peering back at me. I think they got the gist, so I clambered in to the back seat, me a sweaty, crazed mess; them, beautifully dressed up for their lunch out! As we’re travelling down the road through the dogs territory whilst I’m trying to convey how ferocious they are, there isn’t a tail or nose in sight! So we could have cycled down after all! We were only 45 minutes late for our lunch reservation in the end and having given our table away, in the true hospitable Italain fashion they made nothing of it and we tucked in to a proper, authentic Puglian lunch where the food kept coming and the wine kept flowing. Finally things were on the up! That was quite enough adventure for one day, so we relaxed by the van where the lazy afternoon turned into evening and as the hubbub of other diners dissipated (hours after their arrival…lunch is a serious affair here!) we were left alone in the camping area with the view of the castle and the tinkling of the sheep and goat bells as the old farmer drove them back across the fields in front of us. An early night was in order as we discussed our destination for the next leg of our trip……………

Puglia Road Trip – Part 1

Gargano National Park

Apologies for the lull in posts. We’ve gone native and taken a leaf out of the Italian’s book. Lots of things grind to a halt in August, factories close down, shops put up their shutters and most people seem to slide to the coast like paperclips to a magnet. Who can blame them really? When the temperatures are mid to high thirties with humidity off the scale it seems the sensible thing to do. So if you can’t beat them, join them.

It was for this reason we decided to pack up the van and hit the road, on a due east heading, destination Puglia, first stop Gargano National Park. As you look at Italy on a map, there’s a slight bulge on the east coast, ‘mid-calf’ on the leg of Italy. It’s a rocky outcrop predominantly covered by the Gargano National Park, a mountainous, wild landscape full of dense pine forests and rocky spurs. Our planned destination for three nights was an agriturismo with restaurant and campsite near the more populated coastline. However, when we got there it was one huge building site with no services available so plan B it was! Which consisted of a quick search for nearby campsites only to be faced with a barrage of busy camping village after camping village. They’re great if you have kids and want to be based near the beach for a while but it wasn’t really what we had in mind. But being the main tourist season beggars couldn’t be choosers and we booked and paid for two nights at a camping village just outside Peschici, down a steep winding road. It was a means to an end and the following day we had a fabulous bike ride from our campsite to Vieste, sixteen miles round the coast. The steep start was a shock to the system but eventually it became more rolling and we were pedalling on a road that snaked along the coastline representing a rollercoaster; climbing and dipping, flowing round corners and before we knew it we were cruising along the front in Vieste, sandwiched between the lidos and beach on one side and a plethora of restaurants the other. Our destination was the old town though; past the marina and up a hill on the most easterly spit of land sits a beautiful town, full of whitewashed buildings and narrow little streets that seem to naturally perch on top of the rock as it must have done for centuries previously. We locked our bikes up, changed our shoes and spent the next few hours exploring the streets of this gorgeous little town. Apart from a handful of other visitors we nearly had it to ourselves.

Listening to the grumbles in our tummies we had lunch in the nearest trattoria and what a find it was. It was called La Teresina and was a quintessential Italian restaurant with tables under a vine covered pergola and walls adorned with pottery jugs and ceramics. We had bruschetta to start which was as fresh as a daisy, followed by the most delicious pasta dish I’ve had since being in the country. The Puglian pasta speciality is orecchiette, named so because their shape represents small ears, this was served in a prawn and rocket tomato sauce and was absolutely divine! The ride back was considerably harder than the ride there. I kept telling myself it was because of the now searing heat, and not due to the big lunch with a glass of wine!

Early that evening, we decided to escape. Even though we’d paid for that night we’d had enough of the campsite village life and decided to break free! It felt like we were running away, so it was with excitement and giddiness that we packed everything up (the quickest we’ve done so!) and before we knew it we were on the road again! We decided to just drive and look for somewhere to park as we went along. We left the busy coast behind and took a road that went across some of the wilderness of the National Park, it was an absolutely beautiful drive. The sun was setting behind the hills, casting the forest in a warm glow, the temperature had dropped to a pleasant warmth with patches of fresh, cool air and through our open windows our nostrils were assaulted by the aromatic smell of the pine forest as we wound along a ridge and dropped in to the valley beyond. Soon the wild pine forest gave way to more agricultural land and acre upon acre of olive groves for as far as the eye could see. The ancient olive trees stood behind their stone walls like wizened old men, sat in the same spot for years and years, each one so different; in the fading light I half expected them to come to life like characterful trolls from a movie scene!

We skirted round Vieste and then peeled off on to a quiet road that hugged the coastline and soon came across our camping spot for the night. A gravel parking area beside the road, on a cliff high above the sea, next to the Torre dell’Aglio, a fortified tower in a commanding position gaurding the coastline. This location was poles apart from where we’d been the night before, no one else in sight and all we could hear was the reassuring song of the cicadas and the lapping of the waves down in the now black abyss below us, a soundtrack that we went to sleep to as the gentle sea breeze blew through the open van door.

The next morning we rose before the sun and walked round to the concrete platform in front of the tower where we watched the most beautiful sunrise over the ocean, it was one of those special moments which you feel so privileged to witness and a fitting end to our stay in this part of Puglia. We’ve only scratched the surface so will definitely be back. But for now our next destination on our road trip was calling………

Home, at last!

We’ve finally been reunited with all our lovely belongings after five months apart. I don’t think I’ve ever been so pleased to see the view of three, sweaty removal men swing in to our new road and pull up outside our beautiful new home here in Italy! If it wasn’t for their previously mentioned state, I could have kissed them!!

  • Our new home
  • First night on the terrace
  • Journey’s End: an aptly named bottle of wine

After a frenetic few days unpacking, we’ve got things sorted and it feels so nice to be settled. Despite the odd hiccup along the way, like Mr BND flooding the kitchen because he forgot he’d left the tap on – even the removal men knew to stay quiet and out of the way – the whole process went swimmingly (!) well. I was even reduced to tears by soft furnishings at one point (not something I thought would ever happen) when I opened a box to find all our bed linen beautifully washed and ironed by my wonderful Mum. Climbing in to our own bed that night was the best feeling ever! So now I feel like our Italian life can start in earnest. The previous few months have certainly been an adventure but now it’s the real deal.

I keep getting asked what I plan on doing with my days, to be honest I’m not sure I’ve got time to fit everything in! I want to do more of this. I’ve decided I love writing and I’m excited by the prospect of seeing where it could take me. Even if it’s just you reading my ramblings, then so be it.

We’ve also got a fantastic group of friends down here already, everyone has been so welcoming and we feel like part of the community, so there’s always someone to catch up with over a coffee, go to the beach with for breakfast or pop over to the island of Ischia to go to the spa for the day! (OK, that last one was a one off treat and not a weekly occurrence, before you shut down the screen and stop reading out of protest!) It’s not without it’s tribulations here; like running the gauntlet as you cycle down the main road, taking your life in your hands. Perhaps a slight exaggeration, but the first time we encountered the ginormous Rottweiler that guards the gateway round the corner, Mr BND screamed like a girl and my repressed fear of dogs resurfaced as my life flashed before our eyes. So now, we have to time our pedal stroke to reach maximum velocity at the right point to enable us to sail past his gateway at a speed where his bulk means he can’t chase us. Unfortunately it means we arrive everywhere a sweaty mess but on the other hand it certainly helps to wake us up of a morning! This isn’t the first dog/cycling encounter we’ve had. On our first proper bike ride here early one morning, we headed south to where it gets a bit lumpy and on one particular climb a group of stray dogs were spread out across the road up ahead. They made a lot of noise and snapped at our heels, causing my heart rate to reach a new, unprecedented high and the fastest I’ve cycled up that particular hill. It could be the new performance enhancing method of the cycling world! Never a dull moment.

It’s a world of extremes here, a life caught between rich and poor. Something that’s so evident on early morning bike rides, when you’re cycling along amidst mountains of rubbish on the road side – a sight that we’ve noticed we’ve already become desensitised to – with little traffic on the roads except for the battered old people carriers and minibuses stopping to pick up the many migrant workers looking for labour by the roadside, before turning a corner and passing a luxury beach club that wouldn’t look out of place in the glossy fashion magazines. You could be whizzing past a tall block of flats with many occupants apparent from the vast amount of washing fluttering on the washing lines on balconies, then by the next pedal stroke you’re passing a huge, pristine gated mansion with a brand new car on the drive and a swimming pool alongside. There’s juxtapositions everywhere. There’s a point on my morning route where you crest a hill and have a wonderful view of Baia peninsula sprawled out below, the morning sunlight is glinting off the ocean that stretches across to the rocky island of Ischia and you can make out the thousands of buoys on Lago Fusaro announcing the location of mussel pots that supply the various roadside shacks with their fresh, delicious produce. A sight that makes me smile every time. Until your eyes drift down to the roadside. The panorama is lined with piles of litter and rubbish dumped by the road side, ironically, the disgusting nature of the foreground enhances the beauty of the landscape. Then it’s whizzed past and you’re on the winding, gradual descent down to sea level. It’s such a shame, but much too big a task to be tackled by any one individual so it becomes par for the course and you soon stop noticing it.

  • Some early morning ride photos

Whilst there’s a few areas that are rough round the edges within our local vicinity, there’s some absolutely gorgeous places too. We soon realised that generally the locals look after their houses and their businesses really well, resulting in some fabulous little restaurants and gorgeous beach front clubs where you can sip on a cocktail and watch the sun just melt away in to the sea, leaving it’s soft red hue, as a reminder of it’s presence, plastered across the huge sky. Every time we witness it, we comment on how lucky we are to be here. It’s moments like that, surrounded by friends, which make the low points worth it. I’m writing this the day before we fly back to the UK for four nights. Soon, not only will we have been reunited with our belongings, we’ll soon be reunited with our families too and I just cannot wait!

Sunset at our favourite beach club

Paestum: a hidden gem of Campania

Everyone’s heard of Amalfi and Sorrento, the gorgeous towns that cling to the cliffs above a beautiful blue sea to the south of Naples. Everyone’s also heard of Pompei and Herculaneum too, the wonderful ancient sites that we’re able to walk around and learn about our previous civilisations. All are places that, justifiably, attract millions of visitors each year (don’t get me wrong we loved our trip to Sorrento a few weeks ago, you can read about it here and we are yet to explore Amalfi and Positano) but it’s also nice to get off the beaten track on occasion. So that being said what if you could combine the two? Take the best bits of the coastal towns and add a slice of history as well. If this sounds up you’re street then a visit to Paestum is a must.

Paestum is about an hour down the coast from Salerno, whilst it hasn’t got the cliffs of the Sorrentine peninsula, it does have the beaches and history aplenty. We were joined by some fellow VW campervanners for the weekend; friend’s Liam and Micha and their five month old puppy called Rhea. Our destination was Camping Villagio dei Pini, camping village of pines, which needless to say, was nestled amongst a beautiful pine forest, offering blissful relief from the hot sun. The campsite is quite large with a shop, restaurant and cafe and offers pitches for tents, caravans, motor homes as well as bungalows to rent. It was already quite busy, with many families already set up for the weekend. It’s main draw is it’s location, right on the beach and walking distance to everything in the local village and the historical ruins.

Saturday morning was spent exploring the beautiful Archaeological Park of Paestum which has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998. The site dates back to 600 BC when Greek settlers founded the city and called it Poseidonia, the temples and walls were attributed to this era but the site was developed hugely by the Romans who occupied the city in 273 BC and renamed it Paestum. Remains of the city they created can be seen today, with many buildings, spas, a forum and amphitheatre all in evidence. The city was abandoned between 700 and 900 AD until it was rediscovered by archaeologists centuries later. There’s three main temples that tower above the rest of the crumbled ruins and are surprisingly still very much intact; an astonishing fact when you consider they’re two and half thousand years old! The largest is the Temple of Neptune built around 460 BC, which is accompanied by the Basilica, the oldest of the temples that was built from 560 to 520 BC. Due to it’s different construction and layout, early archaeologists called it a basilica but today it’s believed to have been another temple dedicated to Hera, the wife of Zeus. The third temple sits at the far end of the site on a small hill that was artificially expanded at the time of construction in 500 BC and was dedicated to the Greek god Athena, later to be Minnerva under the Roman rule. The architecture of these temples was so influential in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries when many of the European buildings we know so well were being designed; in particular, the use of Doric and Ionic columns.

We spent a very pleasant couple of hours walking around the site. I’d highly recommend downloading the free app which you can use as an audio guide to learn about most of the buildings as you go along. The ticket also includes entry in to the museum down the road where many of the artefacts are housed. We returned the following morning to visit the museum and are really pleased we did, it helps add detail to the site’s visit. We walked back towards the village, campsite and next destination.

We’d been recommended to visit the local Buffalo farm and dairy called Barlotti, a company that had been operating since the early 1900’s; we’re so pleased we did! The bustling farm yard was a hive of activity with boxes of mozzarella being loaded on to delivery vans, locals parking up and forming the typical Italian ‘queue’ to collect their fresh mozzarella from the small shop and tourists visiting the restaurant and coffee shop. We had a table booked for lunch outside on the terrace, but as we were early we had a walk around the farm to see the animals that were responsible for the delicious white balls of cheese that this area is so well known for. It was wonderful to see the buffaloes themselves, particularly the calves who were as inquisitive towards us (especially Rhea) as we were to them. The restaurant and terrace is right next to the cattle pens so as you’re sat enjoying your meal, the occasional acrid buffalo smell drifts across to assault your nostrils, acting as a constant reminder of how fresh the dairy products are. Under the beautiful vine covered pergola we demolished a delicious lunch; we shared antipasti consisting of local meats, fresh tomatoes and a 1kg ball of mozzarella served in a special dish and cut at the table. It was absolutely divine. It has a creamy, yoghurty taste which I’ve never encountered in mozzarella back at home and as your knife slices through it, a delicious creamy liquid oozes out which cries out to be mopped up by a chunk of bread. We were in heaven! I then had a delicious ricotta filled ravioli followed by their pear and ricotta buffalo gelato.

The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing on the beach where, later on, we were treated to the most beautiful sunset, after which we walked in to the town square where we’d heard there was some live music. What we found though, left quite a lot to be desired and couldn’t really be likened to music at all! So we carried on to Lido Vin.gi 79, a great bar on the beach which epitomises the beach shack look with white pallet furniture and fairy lights. A great way to end the day!

Sunset over Amalfi

Sunday begun in the most wonderful way. The sea was as calm as a mill pond so we decided to test out our most recent purchase of an inflatable kayak. I’m pleased to say that no one drowned and we are still married, so a successful maiden voyage in my eyes! As we paddled out over the crystal clear water, past the buoys marking the safe swimming area, I noticed a large white shape in the water, the size of a football. Then another one, and another one. On closer inspection they were huge jelly fish just floating and bobbing around beneath us like extra terrestrial organisms. There were hundreds of them and they were just fascinating to see. Out on the calm water, just us and these other-wordly creatures was absolutely wonderful and a great way to start the day. By the time we got ashore there were plenty of locals already set up for a day on the beach, so we packed up camp, visited the museum and headed north, stopping for some lunch in Salerno. A weekend with great company, delicious food and fantastic sights…what’s not to like!

Wine Time in Tuscany

Is there anything more quintessentially Tuscan than a row of tall, thin cypress trees disappearing in to the distance, standing guard over row upon row of bright green vines? This is the view that greeted us after every twist and turn of our journey through Tuscany, more specifically the Chianti region.

The vines of Castello Vicchiomaggio

It’s also the backdrop to the stunningly beautiful infinity pool belonging to the hotel we’d booked for two nights. After scouring hundreds of hotels in Tuscany I’d narrowed it down to this one, Castello Vicchiomaggio, positioned on a hilltop just to the north of Greve, in the heart of Chianti. This beautiful estate is run by the Matta family; a family where wine really is in their blood. At the helm is John Matta, who’s father established a large wine importing business in the 1920’s before buying the hilltop castle in 1964. The production of wine flourished under John’s guidance, resulting in numerous awards over the years. The vineyard specialises in Sangiovese and Merlot grapes and I can certainly vouch for the quality of their produce! With John’s eldest two daughters involved in the business, the estate has become a wonderful place to stay, with a selection of beautiful self-contained apartments available in the castle itself. The building is set around an open courtyard where we dined one evening and enjoyed breakfast with the crenellated tower, dating back to the 1100’s, as an impressive backdrop. The castle has a very colourful past, being used as an important defensive position for many battles throughout the Tuscany region, before becoming a Renaissance villa, with plenty of noble guests staying here. The most noteworthy of which is Leonardo da Vinci who resided here whilst painting the Mona Lisa. So we decided it would do for us!

Our time in the Val di Greve started with a wonderful bike ride which saw us take in 20 miles or so of beautiful Tuscan roads, having only really ridden the flat roads of Ferrara for the last few weeks it was a slight shock to the system. We started and finished in Strada in Chianti, where before long we were on a narrow, smooth road that hugged the side of a hill and went up and up an up. In fact it carried on up for 7 miles! But the omnipresent views of beautiful olive groves, interspersed with rows and rows of vines and the odd patch of wild forest lessened the burning ache in the legs. When I finally made it to the top (Mr BND having already been there for some time!) the sense of euphoria was only magnified by the inevitable descent, which was equally as long as the climb and just wound it’s way down the valley as though someone had just draped a piece of tarmac along the hillside. With a lovely road surface, few cars and wide corners it was a joy to ride. The road ended in the town of Greve where we stopped for lunch in Piazza Matteotti, an ancient triangular piazza which has stood at the centre of Greve for over five hundred years. The arched loggia that runs round the edge houses a delightful selection of shops offering local gifts, artisan products and wonderful wines.

The route back to our van saw us climb up, out of the Greve valley, past the turn off to Castello Vicchiomaggio, (which tantalised us with it’s wine tasting sign) and rolled back to Strada. A tough but wonderful bike ride back in the land of hills. You can find the Strava route here.

We were joined at the hotel, by some good friend’s who’d driven down from Ferrara and we soon all decided a visit to a vineyard wouldn’t be complete without a wine tasting. So we spent a very enjoyable couple of hours sat on the terrace quaffing their finest wines. Our friends’ little girls could safely play and for us it was interesting to learn a bit more about the wines. It also made choosing a bottle for dinner slightly easier too. The food was typical Italian fare and was very good, made even more special by sitting in the open air courtyard.

A short drive the other side of Greve is a gorgeous little village called Panzano. After watching the Netflix series ‘Chef’s Table’ we made sure we added this village to the list of must visits. There’s a restaurant called Officina della Bistecca which is now renowned the world over due to it’s media coverage. It’s run by local Dario Cecchini, an eighth generation butcher who’s ethos is centred on respect for the animal and the bringing together of friends and family over quality food. A fitting end to our time in the North as we were joined by two more good friends from Ferrara, resulting in a meat themed send off! (My vegetarian days last year seem such a long time ago now! I must apologise to my Brother for falling off the wagon so spectacularly!) Dario was instrumental in returning the Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Florentine steak) to all it’s glory after it’s popularity decreased years before.

You can’t miss this quirky, unique restaurant due to it’s red and white facade and hoards of people gathering outside for the apperitivo which is included in the set menu. There’s a note on their website that says ‘the officina is not recommended for people of little appetite.’ Never before have I agreed so wholeheartedly with a statement. We were booked in for lunch, which was a blessing, as we needed the rest of the day to recover! They bring out cut after cut of mouthwatering beef, culminating in the Fiorentina as the piece de resistance at the end, all accompanied by delicious sides, bread and wonderful wine served in traditional carafes. This was the first place we’d seen that was busy since lockdown finished. It was bizarre to be around so many people! But it was just tantamount to the excellency and popularity of the place.

The village itself is much more than just home to the restaurant and a walk up to the hilltop the other side of the little square is well worth the effort. With a beautiful little church and panoramic views it’s a nice way to end the visit. The Chianti region is always a joy to visit and with there being so much more to offer it’s remaining on our list of places to visit. Our stay was the perfect way to close one chapter before starting the next.

Life after lockdown for Italy’s tourism.

On the surface life is back to normal. There’s the usual hubbub of people going about their daily lives; the only indicators of the last few months being face masks that spend most of their time pulled down over the chin, peeling stickers on supermarket floors to remind you to keep your distance and bottles of hand sanitiser positioned at most shop and office doorways.

Both in the north and the south of Italy, the traffic hum is back to a normal level, having had a few weeks of eerie silence punctuated by the odd noticeable bus or whining moped. Back in March, the chatter of people walking past our ground floor flat slowly dwindled as the lockdown restrictions tightened and upon release it was a joy to hear again; both for us as well as for the perpetrators the other side of the bars, revelling in the newfound freedom. In fact, in Ferrara, it was busier than we’d ever seen it, particularly when the market resumed and people could get out shopping again.

However, life is far from being back to normal. On the local, day to day level there might not appear to be much amiss but on the tourist trail it’s a different story. It’s a bittersweet feeling. We’re so lucky to see so many places devoid of the usual melee of sight-seers and tour groups. It makes a delightfully refreshing change, having had so many sight-seeing experiences marred by the hundreds of other people clutching ipads and selfie sticks clamouring for the best view. St Mark’s square in Venice with a handful of people in the distance, Ponte Vecchio in Florence to ourselves and Sorrento’s Marina Grande dotted only with local fishermen is a pure privilege. I know we’ll never again experience these places in the same way.

Whilst we can take time over snapping the perfect photo, just pause and appreciate the true beauty or really listen to the accompanying soundtrack of so many wonderful places, my heart goes out to those who are so negatively affected by the last few months. Not that it stops there. It’s not just a handful of weeks that are lost, can be forgotten about and moved on. The true impact on the tourist trade will be much more long term. Yes travel is allowed around the country but international travel on the usual scale is a long way off returning.

Whilst staying in Cesanatico a couple of weeks ago we made a national newspaper because we were the first cycling guests at the Lungomare Bike Hotel since lockdown. When we booked it we certainly didn’t think it was a news worthy event! We were just keen to experience as much of the North as possible.

For me though, two comments have had more of an impact. When walking in to Florence from our hotel we passed a tiny ceramics studio and shop. I insisted on stopping and having a look. The very talented artist and creator was called Eva Puccioni and as we entered and marvelled at her bright and beautiful creations she looked at us and said “It’s so nice to hear English voices.” A sentiment that was reflected through the relief on her face. She showed us her pottery wheel, which to my untrained eye seemed very basic and traditional and she showed us the difference in the colours of items before and after being fired. Not wanting to carry round a beautiful vase with us all day we promised to return the following day to make our purchase. It dawned on me though, about how much Eva must rely on tourism. Her products are a quintessential souvenir, something that would sit on a window sill or dining table and when commented on, the story of meeting her and seeing her studio would be regaled. Not necessarily purchased by the inhabitants of Florence, or even Italy.

The second comment that struck a chord was this last weekend in Sorrento. As we were walking the small front of the Marina Grande we passed a row of restaurants, the friendly proprietors all said ‘ciao’ as we passed but one man in particular heard us conversing and asked where we were from. I could understand his need to enquire when he said, “hearing an English accent at the moment is like seeing a white fly.” A sad reality in a location that relies so heavily on international tourism. The few beaches of Sorrento were busy with Italian sun worshippers but judging by the amount of traffic Sunday morning the majority were locals from the Napoli area who would more than likely take their own lunch and then head home for dinner. The man in question was Gennaro, one of two brothers who run the harbour side restaurant Taverna Azzurra. Despite the current footfall, he was optimistic that it would soon pick up. Which I really hope it does because the business was founded by his Great Grandmother in 1930 and if it was forced to close it would be a real shame.

These are just two small businesses in one country, which makes you wonder how many millions out there are struggling and perhaps won’t survive. Never before has supporting independent businesses been so important. Buying a vase or stopping for lunch can make such a difference to a real family.

So at the moment, in my mind, it’s a win win situation, we get to travel and experience these wonderful places like never before but by us doing so we can make a difference to someone’s day and support the local economy. 2020 is a year that will go down in infamy, but here’s to 2021 being the year the world bounced back; bigger and better than before.

Campervanning in Sorrento

We’ve made it down to our new home just north of Naples. To say there’s a north south divide is a slight understatement. Emilia-Romagna boasts beautiful renaissance towns, with well kept parks and open spaces. Here in Campania there’s a much more laid back approach with crazy driving, lots of litter and plenty of stray dogs. There’s more similarities with parts of Africa than north Italy. Some of the other Brits out here have said “You’ll cry when you arrive, but then cry when you leave.” I can understand why. If we hadn’t be forewarned about some aspects it could be a bit of a culture shock but having spent time in places that are a little rough round the edges, I know we’re going to love it, it has a fantastic atmosphere and is so well located to explore some of the best Italy has to offer.

So it was for that reason we decided to hit the ground running and we spent our first weekend on the Sorrento peninsula. Having spent the last week driving lots of miles we didn’t want to spend too long on the road, so being an hour and half away Sorrento was perfect. We booked in to a campsite, packed the van and were on the autostrada before we knew it! We went straight to Sorrento where we found a fantastic car park on the edge of the town, in a secure, independent supermarket. Which as it turned out was the best supermarket we’d found since being in the country!

View of Capri from the mainland

The next couple of hours were spent winding our way through the town following a self-guided walking tour which we found on Sorrento Insider. Having walked Via della Pieta and Corso Italia, the wide central boulevard lined with fashionable boutiques, the route took us in to the historical centre of Sorrento and along my favourite street, Via San Cesareo. This narrow street is paved with smooth flagstones worn with years of use, the tall buildings on either side are a delightful mix of tiny artisan workshops, restaurants and boutiques selling either leathergoods, clothing or a huge array of lemon themed souvenirs. Every so often the street opens up and you’re offered an unexpected view of the gorgeous Duomo bell tower or the Sedil Dominova; a beautiful 14th century loggia with absolutely incredible frescoes adorning the inside of its cupola.

We then took in the glorious coastal view from Villa Communale, a large terrace hugging the cliff top, before winding down the old, cool streets to Sorrento’s Marina Grande, it’s little fishing village. Passing under the historic town gate you pop out just above this picture perfect little harbour. Normally this would be full of tourists at this time of year, all flocking to eat at one of the little seafood restaurants on the harbour front. However, apart from a handful of locals we had the place to ourselves. We decided to eat at Taverna Azzura, a family run seafood restaurant dating back to 1930 where the fish just doesn’t get any fresher! We shared the classic caprese salad, then both opted for that day’s special of crab filled ravioli in a creamy prawn sauce. Delicious! Washed down with some white wine and complementary, homemade limoncello. The walk back up the steep cliff seemed a lot harder than it should it have done!

The rest of the afternoon was spent at the campsite, a delighful little agricampeggio ten minute drive up the hill from Sorrento. It’s called Oasi Verde and an oasis it certainly is. It’s accessed off a main road in to a small farmyard where the road just suddenly drops down a very steep drive in to an idyllic lemon grove nestled in to the hillside. There’s 8 pitches amongst the lemon trees, olive trees and vines, some with picnic benches and some with BBQ’s. We set up camp and relaxed with the scruffy farm dogs for company.

The next morning we were woken by the battle cries of the various local cockerels dotted about the hillside all eager to announce the imminent sunrise. The ‘crow off’ was then replaced by the beautiful chorus of birds punctuated with the odd dog bark and moped whine. We left early and headed for a little village called Nerano, where the wider, busier roads gave way to narrow, winding, quiet roads as we dropped down to park in the village. From here we hiked the 6 kilometres to the Bay of Ieranto, whose name derives from the Greek word ieros, meaning sacred land. The Sorrentine peninsula is known as ‘The land of the Sirens’ and according to legend this furthest point is where these mythical creatures sang sailors to their doom. The path hugged the cliff for the first part of the walk before reaching a rocky outcrop which offered absolutely gorgeous views along the coast. The path then dropped down in to a valley where it wound itself through row upon row of olive trees which in their regimented lines looked out of place in the otherwise rugged, wild landscape. The shaded grove offered some cover from the already hot sun and as we walked down the hillside the only sound was of birds chirping and the distant lapping of the sea. The path forked with an option to go down to the bay’s small beach where there were already a handful of people snorkelling and sunbathing. We opted to go down to the left to the large abandoned mining buildings that looked like they’d just been stuck to the cliffs above the water line. From here we could appreciate how crystal clear the blue water was and as it is a protected coastline with no motorised boats allowed, the whole area was immaculately unspoiled. As we dangled our feet in the refreshingly cool water we sat listening to the sounds of the water and the low hum of chatter coming from the group of older village men on the beach, obviously partaking in their Saturday morning ritual.

The walk back up took us up the ‘miner’s stairs’ which were a set of rocky steps precariously clinging to the steep cliff face. With views across to Capri offering a good excuse for regular breath-catching rests, the climb wasn’t too arduous and I felt quite good. As we neared the end of the trail at Nerano, the number of people going the other way increased so it was a good move to get up early and get on with it.

We left Nerano and drove back along the winding coast road to Massa Lubrensee, another picturesque town hugging the cliffs with a pretty, little marina at the foot of the hill. Having walked 12 miles we put our feet up for a bit that afternoon and that evening treated ourselves to a fantastic pizza in Sorrento at Pizzeria da Franco’s on the edge of town. A casual restaurant that turned out to be a great find as the locals poured in, to either eat in the restaurant or collect takeaways. It was a great way to end a lovely day.

The following morning saw a leisurely start before packing up and heading back. Perfect timing as the road in to Sorrento was full of cars and mopeds with locals making for the beaches. We only scratched the surface of this famous peninsula but having it so close by means we can easily pop back to explore more. Now for some settling in to the community and developing a routine!

5 Highlights of Florence

Our trip South from Ferrara to Naples included a few night’s in Tuscany. I’d been to this part of the world before but Mr BND hadn’t and was particularly keen to visit Florence. Knowing what a beautiful city it is, I certainly didn’t have any qualms about going again. So here’s five of our highlights from this magical city. Of course, not everything was open and back to normal, so there’s a few things we didn’t get to do. Which just means another trip will be needed!

1. Boboli Gardens

These gardens are a wonderful example of Italian Renaissance gardening, which influenced many other gardens of royal courts throughout the country. They sit behind the Pitti Palace; a huge, imposing building that was built in 1548 for the Pitti family, rivals of the Medici. But in 1549 it was acquired by Cosimo I and Eleonora di Toledo where it became the official residence of Florence’s rulers up until 1919. The gardens were begun in 1549 and designed by Niccolo Pericoli, known as Tribolo and encompass a vast area of the hillside that Florence is nestled at the foot of.

We loved wandering the wide avenues, meandering paths and regimented formal gardens. The wide avenue down the middle which is lined with Cypress trees makes for a good workout with it’s steep gradient and is wonderfully juxtaposed by the smaller, winding paths that disappear off to secret gardens filled with statues and fountains. The gardens are also adorned with grottos, the most famous of which is by Bernardo Bountalenti and two huge fountains; Fountain of Neptune and Fountain of the Ocean. We walked up the hill to the 18th Century Kaffeehaus, which unfortunately was not the coffee house we had in mind! Usually, on any given day in June the grounds, although large, would be teeming with tourists. They certainly were when I visited exactly nine years ago. So the most vocalised thought throughout our visit to Florence was, “I can’t believe how quiet it is. We’re so lucky to see it like this.”

2. Chiesa di San Minitato al Monte

Of all the places in the world I’ve been lucky enough to visit, this little church is right up there in the top ten. You just can’t help but fall in love with it. Take a walk along the south side of the Arno and follow signs to Piazzale Michelangelo, a popular viewpoint over the city. The path either winds up the hill front past fountains and grottos, criss-crossing the road, or you can pop out through the old city walls and follow a cobbled path and steps that go straight up the hill. Both routes take you to Piazzale Michelangelo, a wide piazza, usually full of tacky souvenir stands and tourists trying to get that quintessential shot of the Florentine skyline. There’s also the towering bronze copy of Michelangelo’s David standing guard in the centre. However, don’t stop here, follow the road round and climb a few more steps up to the gorgeous church that sits proudly on the hilltop in an aptly celestial position. The extra effort will be duly rewarded. The exterior is a typical Tuscan geometric design of pristine green and white marble, topped with a statue of an eagle carrying a bale of cloth in homage to the guild of wool importers who financed the church in the middle ages. There’s also the beautiful 13th century mosaic inlay depicting Christ, the Virgin and St Minias which glistens in the sun. St Minias was a rich Armenian merchant who was beheaded for his beliefs in the 3rd century. Legend has it he either flew up from the city or walked carrying his severed head to his resting place here. The church dates from the 11th century and was built over his shrine.

As we climbed up to the facade we were awe-struck at how beautiful this little church is but once you turn around and take in the views from this vantage point you’ll be blown away. The panorama of the city below is just stunning and worth every step. The inside of the church is equally as beautiful, with more glistening mosaics and incredible frescoes dating from 1387. Before we begun the walk back down we took in the peacefulness and tranquility that this corner of the city offered.

3. David

To truly appreciate the medium of sculpture there can be no other better example than that of Michelangelo’s David. Housed in the Galleria dell’Accademia, Europe’s first art school, the 17 foot tall sculpture of the biblical character is definitely the star of the show. Created in 1502-1504 from an abandoned chunk of marble in the cathedral’s courtyard, this giant sculpture catapulted Michelangelo into the limelight at the age of 29. It was originally in the Piazza della Signoria in front of the Palazzo Vecchio until 1873 where a copy now stands. With few other visitors we were able to really study the piece of art from all sides and sit and marvel at the astounding craftsmanship which resulted in every single detail being beautifully created. Well almost….his right hand is proportionally bigger than the rest of his body causing speculation as to why. Some say it’s a nod to David’s nickname, manu fortis, strong hand. Or it could be due to the fact that originally he was destined to be placed high up on Florence’s cathedral. Whichever it is it’s incredible to think he was created from one block of marble over 500 hundred years ago.

4. Giotto’s Bell Tower

Florence’s iconic symbol and most widely recognised building is it’s cathedral, or Duomo. Work began on this incredible building in 1296 and it’s most famous feature is the terracotta tiled dome designed by Brunelleschi and built between 1420 and 1436. It was the largest dome of it’s kind to be built without scaffolding which only makes the great feat even more impressive! Alongside the cathedral is the Campanile, or bell tower. It was designed by Giotto in 1334 and completed after his death. The gorgeous pink, green and white marble facade of the cathedral was added later to match the bell tower. Opposite the main entrance to the cathedral is the Baptistry of San Giovanni, a beautiful octagonal structure dating back to the 4th century.

As we crossed the Ponte Vecchio and wound our way through the streets we went under the Uffizi gallery, pass the Palazzo Vecchio (which is one of my favourite buildings but was unfortunately still closed), through Piazza della Signoria where all of a sudden we turned a corner and there, seeming to rise up from nowhere is the beautiful duomo; an absolute feast for the eyes. The soft pastel colours of the intricate, geometric facade contrasted beautifully against the bright orange of the tiled roof. We found ourselves just standing mouths agape, drinking it all in. We would have loved to have gone up the dome but it also hadn’t reopened yet so we settled for an ascent of the bell tower which was equally as beautiful, if not more so as the imposing dome was so close you felt you could almost reach out and touch it. There’s 414 steps up to the top floor of the bell tower with varying views from different levels on the way up but every step is worth it as the views are incredible. We were very fortunate to have the top viewing area to ourselves, resulting in a magic few moments.

5. Food and drink

Obviously one of our highlight’s of Florence had to be food orientated. We weren’t disappointed as you sometimes can be in a tourist place. We had two nights in the city; for dinner the first night we found a fabulous little restaurant a friend had recommended called Osteria Cinghiale Bianco, or White Boar which is located in a 13th century tower in the heart of medieval Florence, not far from the Ponte Vecchio. It’s a family run business that’s been going since 1984 with Massimo Masselli at the helm. We had a delicious meal of local dishes, accompanied by the house wine served in earthenware jugs embellished with a white boar, whilst sat in the original part of the tower. Perfect!

The second night we decided to try somewhere nearer our hotel, just outside of the city walls, the otherside of Porta Romagna. We’d seen a couple of lively looking places on the walk back the night before so popped down to try one. Fate played a part as we’d only planned to have a drink at Antica Porta, but when the waitress bought us place settings and cutlery we decided to be typically British and just go with it! I’m so pleased we did! It was a great little find, we were outside on the busy street and were entertained by the many locals coming to collect their pizza’s from the wood fired pizza oven inside. Both our meals were excellent and I had one of the best tiramisus ever! Except actually I keep saying that every time because I love that dessert so much!

From there is was a short but very steep walk back to our hotel, Torre dei Lari Residenza d’Epoca. This was a beautiful villa that began life as a sighting tower in the late 12th century, later becoming a summer palace for Florentine families to escape the heat of the city. Lorenzo Strozzi bought it and when he married Maria Simona Macheavelli, neice of the famous writer Niccolo Macheavelli in 1614 he developed it in to the luxury villa it is today. Our room was a large, high ceiling affair with beautiful old furniture and a lovely modern bathroom. There was a beautiful pool and a lovely garden and breakfast was superb! So whilst it wasn’t that central, it was perfect to escape to and relax.

  • Cinghiale Bianco
  • Aperitivo in front of the Duomo
  • Hotel Front
  • The Torre dei Lari Residenza d’epoca
  • The pool
  • The road to the hotel
  • A ceiling inside the hotel

Florence is without a doubt one of my favourite places in the world and to share it with so few other people was very special.

Links

The best cycling hotel in Italy?

Whilst researching our road trip to the coast we heard about the town of Cesenatico, the home of the famous cyclist Marco Pantani, and soon decided it was to be added to our list of destinations. I stumbled across the Lungomare Bike Hotel online and I reckon if Pinarello made bike hotels, it would be just like this! You could be fooled by the bright and colourful exterior into thinking it’s just another one of the many hotels along this stretch of the Adriatic coast, but you’d be wrong. This one definitely stands out. The passion, joy and sense of family literally permeates out through the lobby door.

Our most recent experience of cycling accommodation was staying with a wonderful couple in a home stay in the Pyrenees, where the personal touch made all the difference. So I was reluctant as to how a hotel could do the same. However, I needn’t have worried. I’ve never received such a warm and welcoming reception than the one we were greeted with here. The hotel is a family run, third (soon to be fourth) generation business, a fact that’s evident in all aspects. The family is the Pasolini family and we had the most contact with Francesca, who runs the business with the help of her sister Silvia, Silvia’s husband and son Filippo who is currently studying hospitality at university. We also met Giuliano and Primula, Francesca’s parents, who were so integral in starting this business in the 1950’s. It’s a real family affair and they all have a wonderful passion for cycling that’s so infectious you just can’t wait to get out on the road! The ‘family’ doesn’t stop there either, the wonderful members of staff who looked after us so well obviously make up the extended family of the hotel and everyone seemed so happy and content in their work.

The Pasolini Family

We were booked in for two nights on the ‘Easy Bike’ package in a sea view junior suite. The package included half board and full use of the hotel’s amenities, which includes a beautiful heated pool and a spa.

Before going to our room we checked our bikes in to their luxury accommodation too! As we were buzzed through to the secure bike room we were blown away by what met us. There were hooks for hundreds of bikes to be hung up and locked, there was a work station area with pumps and tools for tinkering away and there was even a bike wash area complete with shampoo, lube and rags. The cycling jerseys and memorbilia hanging from the ceiling finished it off perfectly. If you’re reading this and not a cycling fan then the impact of this room will be minimal but for cycling geeks this is the ultimate bike room! There were also a number of beautiful Pinarello Dogma F10’s hanging along one side of the wall which are available to hire.

We were as equally impressed with our room too. We had a beautiful, airy junior suite on the third floor with fantastic views of the sea from two balconies. All the added touches that one associates with a luxury hotel were included, fluffy robes, luxury shower and bath with toiletries and as we were on the bike package we were also given a musette and bidon each too, which was a lovely touch. The bed was a gigantic round affair which swivelled so you could make the most of the views without having to leave. A very cool, modern touch were hundreds of colour changing fibre optic strands hanging from the ceiling which added a bit of pizzazz to the suite. It was the perfect room to come back to after a day’s cycling to unwind and relax.

The cycling itself was also fantastic, with two rides over our stay. The first day had seen a wet start so we went out in the afternoon instead. Andrea was our guide, a local who is the epitome of an Italian professional. Obviously a very good cyclist, very cool but also down to earth and helpful. That afternoon he showed us the best local sights as well as imparting local knowledge. Stops included the Pantani statue on the sea front, Cesenatico centre (for more information see my post Three gems of South Romagna) and Cesena, another beautiful, medieval town and home to the Melatesta Library, the first public library in Italy. The ride included a 5 km climb to wake the legs up, which wasn’t the easiest after the delicious lunch and accompanying wine! 32 miles later we found ourselves back at the hotel having worked up another appetite for that night’s dinner.

The Pantani Monument

The next morning saw a drier start and after a hearty breakfast we set off again with Andrea. Normally, the hotel would be full of cyclists and there would be five groups heading out to do varying distances and speeds. The routes and profiles are all advertised on the rider’s wall in the hotel and riders sign up the night before by writing their names on the sheet; a great system. As it was just us though, Andrea had planned a perfect route, having gauged our ability the day before. Being on the coast means most rides include a nice flat warm up to get the legs spinning before going as hilly as you wish. We set off, enjoying just following a wheel and not having to worry about looking at directions on the garmin, consulting the map and worrying if the roads were suitable for cyclists. It took away all the stress and drama and we could just ride. First stop was Santarcangelo di Romagna, a hilltop town perched atop a rock at the start of the rolling hills. Due to the large market we had to cycle up a steep street to get to the old centre but were duly rewarded with beautiful views and narrow cobbled streets that have hardly changed in centuries, it was like stepping back in time. After a bit more flat riding we got to Lo Stadone where we hit a beautiful 3 km climb which was a bit punchy to start with but then levelled out. A beautiful descent and a flat stretch offered some respite before another 2 km easier climb to the town of Longiano with a fantastic castle offering commanding views for miles. We stopped here for the required cafe stop, a chance to soak up the sun and find out a bit more about Andrea. He told us how he used to race until the age of 18, has been leading rides for twenty years and also coaches children. The cycling world has changed so much though, gone are the days guests just go for a ride for enjoyment, when distance and speed is dictated by feel. Nowadays data has taken over, with some people moaning about cycling 5 km more or less than advertised, climbing 100 metres more than the profile said and chasing Strava segments; another sad case of when technology can take over and the real passion and enjoyment is lost.

The return route took us to the other side of the valley for the best view of the castle and town, a bit more of a climb and then an absolutely wonderful descent on wide, meandering roads that slowly wiggled down the hillside. A fast-paced run back in to the hotel via the Pantani family villa and Piadineria ended a fabulous ride.

What will stick most in my mind about these two rides is the fragrant smell of cut grass and gorgeous views of hilltop towns that seemed to glow in the sunlight. Andrea was a superb guide, encouraging and patient when needed but happy to push on slightly so you ended with a sense of achievement. On the climbs he left me to battle the pain whilst remaining nearby at all times describing the upcoming ramps when appropriate. I know they were small hills compared to some but considering the little cycling I’ve done over the last year and the toll treatment has taken, these rides filled me with confidence and I feel able to get back to where I once was.

The afternoon was spent by the pool and walking on the beach followed by drinks in a nearby bar and yet another dinner at the hotel, I particularly loved the fresh seafood that was on offer everyday.

The next morning we were treated to the most beautiful sunrise with the flaming ball slowly creeping up over the millpond-like sea. It was too good to go back to bed so I went for a jog along the beach followed by some yoga and a paddle, a great way to end our stay.

Thank you to all the staff at the Lungomare Bike Hotel that made our stay so wonderful, it’s just a shame we couldn’t stay for longer. Whilst I obviously can’t comment on whether this is the best cycling hotel in Italy, it definitely has to be up there. I’m sure there’s no better in the region and if you’re after a mix of beach and hills then it’s perfect. This stretch of the coast is second only to Florida for hotels per square mile so you’ve got to be good to stand out and these guys definitely do that! If you like riding your bike on beautiful roads, eating delicious food and drinking good wine then this place is for you! We shall definitely be back.

Links

3 Gems of South Romagna

Our exploration of Emilia-Romagna continued with a trip to the South East corner of the region, which was originally known as Romagna before the two regions merged. There were so many places we wanted to visit before leaving but we narrowed it down to three…and we’re very pleased with our choices!

San Marino

Our first stop was the tiny republic of San Marino. In fact it’s the world’s smallest and oldest republic founded by a Christian named Marinus in 310 AD. The people of San Marino have one of the highest average incomes in Europe, and the men have a higher life expectancy than any other country in the world, so it must be a good place to live! The historic town centre is nestled at the top of Monte Titano resulting in a picture perfect town that wouldn’t look amiss in a Disney film! We picked a place to camp for the night on the edge of Borgo Maggiore at the base of the huge rocky outcrop. There’s some designated Camper Van parking over three or four terraces that offer some beautiful views over the rolling foothills to the sea. It was a short walk up to the cable car station and before we knew it we were whizzing up to the top of the world! The views from up there are just unbelievable. There’s the lush, green Appenines to one side, then the flat coast to the other. You can even see the Alps in the distant.

There was little point putting the camera away because as we delved further in the small town centre there were beautiful panoramics at every twist and turn. We shouldn’t have been surprised at how quiet it was; that day was the first day travel in to and out of Italy and between regions was allowed. But we couldn’t believe how lucky we were to see it like this. There were only a handful of other tourists that we came across and with day trip visitors usually reaching three million a year we felt extremely privileged. We followed the naturally flowing path along the length of the rocky outcrop to admire the three towers that stand guard on the three peaks of the mountain. When you’re up here you can see why the mountain is so named; apparently it is one of the mountains the mythological Titans climbed to reach the heavens. Due to it’s easily defended location it’s of little surprise this republic has managed to keep outsiders at bay and as a result very little has changed since the 13th century. The three towers date back to the 11th century and usually visitors can enter two of them to admire the thousands of weapons and learn about the founding of San Marino in the relevant museums. However, they were not open when we were there. Luckily though the restaurants were and we stopped to refuel with pizza and wine on the terrace of La Capanna a great little restaurant that’s been there since 1927.

We spent the next couple of hours winding our way amongst the narrow, medieval streets of the old town centre. It was a delightful mix of gorgeous old architecture studded with the seemingly random shops geared up for the hoards of tourists who are obviously desperate for tax free sunglasses, watches, perfume and even guns! When a thunderstorm started to roll in we took our cue to leave and headed back down to the van for the evening. After a BBQ dinner we took a stroll down the quiet street and around the corner to find a huge staircase zig zagging up the rock face to a shrine. It was the site where San Marinus first climbed the mountain and lived a pious life in a cave for many years in the 3rd century before moving to the top of the mountain. It provided us with some spectacular views as the sun dipped behind the rolling hills and well worth the climb. The night was spent with the van door open so we could soak in the scene of the millions of twinkling lights below us stretching to the sea, the glorious sight of fireflies bobbing along the nearby vegetation and the accompanying soundtrack of crickets singing us to sleep…just magical!

Cesenatico

The next destination on our list was the coastal town of Cesenatico. Our attention was drawn to this particular place because it is the birth place of a very famous cyclist called Marco Pantani. We didn’t really know what to expect from this name on the map but I’m so pleased we visited. It’s one of my favourite places so far. We decided to upgrade to a hotel for a couple of nights and after some online research we came across Lungomare Bike Hotel. If you’re reading this and not a cycling fan then don’t worry, you won’t be bored to death with talk of Pinarellos and Gran Fondos. But if that is right up your street then click here to read all about it!

Lungomare Hotel is also for non cyclists too and is run by the most welcoming and warm family that you could ever meet. It’s a couple of miles down the coast from the centre of Cesenatico itself and as it was drizzling when we arrived early that morning we decided to walk to the town rather than go for the planned bike ride. The walk was down a wide boulevard running the length of the shore with hotel after hotel on one side and bagno after bagno on the other. We’ve learnt going to the beach is done slightly differently here, you don’t just rock up and claim your sandy square like you do in the UK. Most of the beaches are split in to bagnos who own their designated strip of beach. They have restaurants, bars, children’s play areas and row upon row of loungers. All of which should be full of people escaping to the coast for the weekend, but with the lack of people and only the odd hotel open, it made for a very melancholy atmosphere.

As we approached the town centre the typical beach themed shops gave way to more historical buildings, then your path is blocked by the Porto Canale which takes you inland. The quaysides were lined with fishing boats whose crews were hosing down after a hard morning’s work. The town was founded in 1302 by the people of nearby Cesena with the idea to build a port and later a canal to connect the two towns. But the small canal they’d built kept silting up, so in 1502 Leonardo da Vinci redesigned it to what it is today. It has a feel of Venice about it but on a much smaller, personable level.

A walk along the canal takes you past the most wonderful looking seafood restaurants, bars and cafes up to the historical display of boats at the end that make up part of the Museo della Marineria. With the colourful boats sat proudly in the water flying their authentic sails you really get a feel for what the place was like centuries ago. We also found the covered fish market which had a beautiful selection of fresh fish and seafood only a stones throw from where it was unloaded that morning. Later, thanks to our cycling guide, we visited Piazzetta delle Conserve where there still remains an old pit that was filled with ice and snow and layers of fish to keep the daily catches fresh over winter. There’s also a daily fruit and veg market every morning in the same square. We loved exploring this little gem of a town and if it wasn’t for wanting to squeeze in a visit to one more place then we would have stayed for longer.

Ravenna

About half an hour up the road is the city of Ravenna. This fascinating city peaked early on it’s history and seemed to miss out on all the grandeur of the renaissance years. It’s older than Venice and was once an important Roman settlement, second only to Rome. One could be forgiven for thinking nothing good came of the Dark Ages but this unassuming city begs to differ. Reaching it’s fame towards the end of the 400’s this place really has some history. One of the main reasons people visit Ravenna is to marvel at the wonderful Byzantine mosaics that adorn the interiors of most of the churches, mausoleoms, crypts and houses. This is also what I was most looking forward to seeing, however the sightseeing gods weren’t on our side, as they were all still closed…opening again in two days time. We did, however, have a very pleasant wander round, admiring the buildings from the outside, struggling to contain our incredulity at how old they were. The church of San Vitale is a definite must see, it dates back to 525 AD and is an impressive building. With it’s octaganol shape, plethora of arches, butresses and curves it’s a wonder in itself. The interior is said to contain some of the best mosaics in the world along with the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia which can be found in the grounds of San Vitale. This empress, with roots in Constantinople, had this mausoleum built as her resting place, but after a most eventful life ended up in Rome instead. Nonetheless she became Ravenna’s first patroness and can be remembered by visitors to this site. I can only imagine how striking the interior is by comparison to the unassuming, plain exterior.

Another sight to see in Ravenna is the Piazza del Popolo, a centre square that was designed by the Venetians when they briefly ruled in the 15th century. It contains two columns topped with figures of San Vitale and Saint’Apollinare, the city’s two patrons. The church of Saint’Apollinare Nuovo is also said to contain some wonderful mosaics but we made do with admiring it from the exterior.

We had a delicious lunch in a seafood restaurant tucked away down a quiet street, before a wander round the refurbished covered market and a look at Dante’s tomb, where the famous Italian poet is buried after spending the last three years of his life.

It’s unfortunate the current state of emergency meant we couldn’t experience the main attraction of this wonderful city but we really enjoyed our day here and shall just have to return another time. Back to Ferrara we headed, to pack our things and get ready to head South.

Links

Create your own website, free on WordPress.com.Create your own website.
Start free