A New Perspective

Escape to Elba

I recently had a couple of days off and escaped the rising mercury in the city and went to the coast. More specifically, the island of Elba. Despite being Italy’s third largest island it’s only 17 miles long by 11 miles wide and offers a hugely diverse geography, from beautiful beaches to forest covered mountains. Its history is equally as vast, being most famous as the place of exile for Napoleon in 1814. But it was a hugely important source of iron ore for the Romans and before them even the Etruscans. Minerals and precious stones are still quarried today making beautiful souvenirs for the tourists that visit every year. Elba is the largest island of the Tuscan Archipelago which, according to a local legend, was formed by the Venus de’ Medici (the goddess of love) when she broke her pearl necklace whilst stepping out of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Seven of the pearls fell into the water and formed the seven islands of the archipelago, with Elba being the grandest jewel. A jewel indeed it is!

I didn’t visit Elba alone. I went with someone who has recently become important to me and is one of the most wonderful people I’ve had the good fortune of meeting. However, if you’ll forgive me, I think further details on that may have to wait until a bit further down the line. But it was with excitement that we set off on the three hour journey from Rome early one Monday morning. After a short ferry ride we reached Portoferraio, the main town on the island. This bustling port town was base for 4 nights and it was here where days begun with sunny views over the port and ended with the moon’s dancing reflection in the waters below. The hours in between were a hive of activity as the many ferries came and went throughout the day, engines humming, deep horns occasionally making their presence known and billowing plumes of black smoke from the exhausts. A short walk along the waterfront is the old harbour. A juxtaposition to the extreme. Here catamarans, sail boats and little colourful fishing boats known as gozzi were bobbing up and down on the crystal clear water, the clinking of sails being the accompanying soundtrack whilst flashes of silver sardines and anchovies darted about below. The extreme contrast continued throughout the week, as the old port filled up with luxury superyachts. The sleek, smooth, almost menacing boats towered above their fellow harbour companions. With the crews milling about, one could glimpse inside through the occasional open window or door where the overtly luxurious other world could be seen. Not a world which appeals much to me, give me a gozzo any day!

The three full days spent on Elba were a delightful mix of exploring, eating and relaxing. The first day was the most active. The highest point on the island is Monte Capanne, which stands at 3,343 feet above sea level. Of course, point out the highest mountain and a determined need to climb it comes over me….so we did!

The adventure started in the picturesque hillside town of Marciana; a higgledy-piggledy village made up of every shade of the terracotta colour palette. The orange pops of colour standing out in the sea of greens on the forest covered slopes. Here we took the well signed 101 route and went up! There is a cable car which can take the less actively inclined visitor to the summit, but even if we had been tempted it wasn’t operating so by Shanks’ pony it was. Through pine scented woodland we wandered, crunchy leaves under foot, moss covered stones to weave around and fern fronds brushing our ankles. Previously, hikes and walks like this had been rushed. The goal was to get to the top as quickly as possible. However, something in me has changed and I got more out of the journey than the destination. Glued to my hand was a camera. A proper one, not one inside a phone. It’s my first foray in to the world of photography, I know I’ve a lot to learn and I’m probably not any good but I’m loving it. Now, even back in Rome, walks that would have taken me 10 minutes are at least double if I’m camera laden. I now look at things from a different perspective; how the light falls, where the shadows lie, the texture of materials or the expression on someone’s face. All minute details that I previously blindly hurried past. So it was with sheer joy that the hike to the summit was dotted with pauses. Whether the subject was successfully captured or not didn’t really matter. The small miracles of nature were there to be witnessed. Like, the fluffy, green carpet of moss covering a boulder, or the prickly pouches once home to chestnuts nestled in a bed of crunchy, crisp leaves or the wizened, aged wood of a long fallen tree trunk. As the looming summit neared, the tree cover reduced and the pine scented forest path became a rocky landscape dotted with low-lying gorse, whose vibrant yellows punctuated the earthy tones. The handful of other hikers we’d seen multiplied as everyone convened at the top. It was a strange summit landscape dominated by aerials and radio masts, the anthesis to what had preceded. So the break was short lived. The journey down saw a deviation from the main route and as a result the paths were even more deserted, allowing time to dip hot hands in cool mountain streams and to marvel at the sticky flows of abundant tree resin which in millions of years will become amber, the organic gemstone found in some of the island’s souvenir shops. Some (I’ve no idea how many) hours later signs of civilization reappeared and before long a delightfully cold beer was going down rather nicely in the cool, shady piazza of Marciana. What a thoroughly delightful excursion!

The rest of the time spent on Elba was spent ‘a braccio’. Meaning literally “by the arm” when no plan or structure is followed. Every inch of the island was explored though, from the rocky outcrop on the extreme westerly point of the island, to the picture postcard town of Porto Azzurro and places in between like Marina di Campo. The former, showcases deep blue views across to Corsica. At the second, plates of anchovies washed down with white wine were enjoyed and at the latter the most delicious tagliare board was consumed! All at a typically slow Italian pace.

The final standout highlight that has to be documented happened early one morning. After a run around the old port and castle there was only one way to cool down…a dip in the sea of course. Spiaggia delle Ghiaie, a short walk away from the apartment, at that hour was practically deserted. The local bar was opening it’s shutters and brushing off the parasols. The beach is made up of the prettiest, glistening silky smooth stones you ever did see. For this reason the water is crystal clear. I’ve never seen sea water like it. An initial, breath-taking moment soon receded and the calm, cool water’s gentle caress was very welcome. Floating with face up to the brightening sky and ears below the water the only sound was the tinkling of the smaller stones tumbling against each other as the lazy waves tentatively dragged them back and forth. Before long though a shoal of fish soon appeared. I’m not talking the little, barely visible kind! These were large fish. Their silver scales punctuated with a black spot which seemingly mirrored the stones on the beach. Later identified as saddled seabream. Their inquisitiveness and lack of fear was remarkable and for half an hour or so we all enjoyed the calm, morning waters together as they wound around my legs and brushed my outstretched hand. Really quite astounding. Of course, some things in life need to be enjoyed in the moment. In that instant It didn’t even cross my mind to reach for the camera.

A lot is packed in to this little island so whether you prefer perfect beaches, picturesque villages or rolling wild landscapes it has something for everyone. Elba had offered the most perfect escape, a chance to unwind, slow down and fall in love with a new pastime. It may have been the first time to the island haven for me, but I’m absolutely sure it won’t be the last.