Brand New Day

Herculaneum and Vesuvius

They say you never visit the places that are right on your doorstep. We don’t want to get to the end of our time out here and rush to visit places that are yet to be ticked off the list. Or worse still, not get there at all! Some of the major tourist attractions we were leaving until family and friends visit, but as things are at the moment, who knows when that will be. So with a week off work for Mr BND we took the proverbial bull by the horns and made a start by getting our geek on.

First stop on the tourist trail was Herculaneum. With both of us being huge history fans we could have spent much longer here than we did. In fact we’d happily have moved in! A bit draughty during winter but worth it I’m sure! This famous Roman town is often overlooked by it’s larger counterpart down the road: Pompei. However, Herculaneum is praised for being much more intact, giving a more true representation of Roman life. I was amazed at how well preserved this town is. Herculaneum is believed to date back to the 7th century BC when the Oscans or the Etruscans built a settlement there. It later became a much more established town after the Romans seized it in 90 BC and it flourished in to a popular resort for rich families due to it’s coastal position. The old shoreline was actually half a kilometre in land from where it is now and the tour of Herculaneum starts at what would have been the coastal dock. If you weren’t giving the place your full attention, you certainly would be after the first stop on the itinerary. The Fornici are the port warehouses where in as recently as 1980, 300 human skeletons were discovered along with all their worldly possessions including jewellery and gold. They were obviously trying to flee after the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD and took shelter in these warehouses, where they were tragically killed by the scorching clouds of toxic gas. The ensuing pyroclastic flow perfectly preserved the whole site, solidifying everything in 16 meters of ash and mud. The skeletal remains have been removed but replaced with exceedingly realistic replicas that instantly portray the tragic end this flourishing town met.

Just wandering around this site is fascinating enough but we found an excellent guide on the website offering in depth information about each part. As well as seeing the beautiful temples and halls, for me the highlights were the buildings that conveyed every day life for the inhabitants. Such as the pub or Taberna, where the counter is still in tact housing dolia (jars) which stored wine and food; the central baths that date from the 1st century BC with their beautiful black and white mosaic floors and wall niches for the storage of their clothes. Then finally the shops, some complete with wooden staircases and mezzanines to the shopkeeper’s living quarters.

I’d obviously heard about Herculaneum before, but not until I was there, walking through the streets, in the footsteps of a civilisation created an imperceptibly long time ago, the true wonder of the place finally sinks in. What a blessing it was accidentally discovered whilst a well was being dug in 1707.

Next stop on the tourist trail was the following day where we ventured up to the top of Mount Vesuvius. Having lived here now for nearly 6 months, this omnipresent volcano has become a reassuring part of the landscape, looming over the Bay of Naples in it’s seemingly protective way. It had always been a shape in the distance, with it’s distinguished outline that can be recognised from miles around. So we thought it was time we went up it! Luckily, we took 4 wheels, rather than 2 for now. I’ve heard horror stories from people who have slogged up it’s steep, never ending gradients under their own steam on a bike. So I was keen to drive it before we attempted that particular challenge.

The road leaves the built up, suburban area of Ercolano and before you know it, winds it’s way up the slopes in a continuous series of wiggles and bends. We reached the point where vehicles must stop and park and then you get a shuttle bus up to the next point or can walk up the road. Due to having a time slot booked in advance, we got the bus and walked back down after. The bus drops you off at the end of the road where you enter through turnstiles and walk the 600 metres or so, up a steep dirt path to the crater. We were exceptionally lucky to have a beautifully sunny day, with a bright blue sky, so whilst a little fresh up there we were blessed with astonishing views.

We had a brief guide from one of the National Park’s employees who told us how until 1944 when it last erupted, the volcano had an open chamber where the magma was visible from the crater rim. The pressure inside increased causing more and more magma to collect over time until it overflowed and lava flowed down the side of the volcano. Luckily very few people were killed due to the slow speed in which it travelled. The crater then became sealed so when you look inside there isn’t much to see apart from the pockets of billowing steam forcing it’s way out of the rock. However, the volcano is still very much active and when the pressure reaches a certain point inside the chamber it will erupt in a much more violent way than that of 1944. It was a rather poignant visit for me as my Grandpa was stationed in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius during the war and he remembers having to bat the ash off his tent. From the rim we looked for the spot where he was likely to have been based.

After partaking in a coffee up there, (I was quite astonished to find three wooden shacks offering hot drinks, postcards and bottles of wine or limoncello!) we walked back round the crater and down the way we’d come up.

We were so pleased to have done both of these local attractions, not just because they were so fascinating but because they were also very quiet. We could stand in the House of Neptune and Amphitrite in Herculaneum, all by ourselves and marvel at the sunlight bouncing off the beautiful mosaics that adorned the walls. We could walk the smooth flagstones of the main streets and let our minds drift to those that have trod the same path centuries before. We were lucky enough to stand on the south side of the Vesuvius rim and enjoy the miles and miles of vista in all directions. From the impressive Sorrento peninsula on one side, right across the Bay of Naples to the Bacoli peninsula and the distant Aurunci mountains on the other. We could drink it all in, uninterrupted and take a moment to reflect on how fortunate we are to experience these places. Luckily, they’re not going anywhere, as lockdown 2.0 has begun and our tourist adventure will have to be put on hold for now.

Autumn in Campania

Here in Campania the nights are drawing in and there’s a definite chill in the air. The much asked question of whether we also change our clocks here in Italy was answered last weekend, with us being blessed with an extra hour in bed but robbed of an hour of daylight that evening; an unfair exchange in my eyes! Autumn is definitely here with it’s inevitable successor not far behind.

I love it though! The energy-sapping heat is no longer exhausting us, the early fresh, cool air reminds me of mornings back at home; when you knew it was going to be a beautiful day once the sun had dragged itself up over the horizon. On days like those you want to get out there to make the most of it and soak up the last few rays of summer. Which is exactly what we’ve been doing.

Regulations have curtailed a few exploration plans but autumn hikes and sunny bike rides have been the order of the day at weekends. I won’t bore you with every single outing but a few highlights stand out. Before we were confined to our province (don’t feel too bad for us, it’s quite a large province containing a lot to do!) we were lucky enough to pedal our way along some of the most beautiful roads of the region. The first outing was north to the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina. Our route gradually took us up off the flat valley, where we left the busy, dirty main roads behind and were soon winding our way up the mammoth mountain towering over us. A ten mile climb ensued, consisting of peaceful, windy roads through woodland with the occasional glimpse to the valley below. The last part was just absolutely magical, the road entered grove after grove of sweet chestnut trees, nestled amongst moss covered rocky crags, creating an eerie, mystical scene. The likes of which you’d expect to see as the backdrop to a film about fairies or woodland elves. For mile after mile we’d been the only people on the road, in fact we hadn’t seen another soul for ages. However, as we neared the top, amongst the chestnut groves we came across cars abandoned at the roadside, the gentle hum of chatter drifting over to us from families scouring the ground and filling bag after bag with sweet chestnuts. This was obviously an age old Autumn tradition for many local families. The climb finally culminated on the edge of Roccamonfina itself, a picturesque medieval town where we then followed the road that contoured around the crater offering fantastic views from all sides before a long descent back to where we had parked. It’s probably the most picturesque ride we’ve done down here!

A strong contender for the title came not long after, one sunny October morning. I couldn’t stop smiling as we were cruising the very road that is in the top ten most scenic drives of all time…the Amalfi coast. The locals were still yet to emerge, which meant the roads were so, so quiet and around every twist and turn there were uninterrupted beautiful views of the crystal clear waters, blue sky and gorgeous coastline. By the time we’d covered the 23 miles of constantly rolling road (there’s no flat, straight bits at all!) we arrived at Positano for much needed sustenance in the form of coffee and cake. After our pit stop, the world had woken up and the ride back was a battle of the cyclists and motorbikes! The spectacular backdrop and stunning views distracted from the build up in traffic though and every pedal stroke was pure joy. This is the stuff dreams are made of and we’re so lucky to have it just down the road.

It’s not just lycra that we’ve been donning, the walking boots have seen a fair bit of action too. Despite the Italian map system being somewhat lacking, we’ve managed to find a few good walks. (We are so lucky to have Ordance Survey in the UK with well sign posted routes.) This last weekend we went to Castellammare di Stabia, a town on the bay of Naples nestled in to the ‘shoulder’ of the Sorrento peninsula. This slightly run down, industrial town still has plenty to offer with a ‘lungomare’ or sea front that makes a nice change to the row upon row of private lidos that line nearly every other inch of coastline here. We had booked in for one night to La Chiaja Art and Relais hotel. A small, independently run business near the seafront. It was a gem of place. The standard to which this old seafront wool shed had been renovated was amazing, with luxurious touches but sympathetic to it’s heritage. With only a few rooms it had the feel of an exclusive hotel but what really made the stay was the fantastic member of staff who looked after us, a lady called Annarita, who offered customer service far above and beyond what you come to expect. The piece de resistance was a fabulous terrace overlooking the bay with views of Vesuvius in one direction and the Latti mountain range of the peninsula in the other. It was here where we watched the sun slide from the sky in to the sea in a wonderful glow of oranges and pinks.

The following morning saw a delicious breakfast and an opportunity for us to practise our Italian with Annarita who spoke slowly enough for us to figure out what was being said! We then walked along the seafront to the town centre where we took the cable car up to Mount Faito, the highest mountain of the peninsula. The cable car is certainly not for vertigo sufferers as it reaches a steepness of 60% in places but the eight minute journey offered lovely views of the bay….until we got to the top that is, where we found ourselves in the cloud! I’d read about a walk along the ridge at the top so we set off in to the mist, leaving behind the few other people who were up there too. Whilst it was a shame to not have the fantastic views of the bay below, or the blue sky and sunshine, in a way it was even better. The path wound it’s way through woodland taking us up and down as we followed the contours of this huge mountain. The mist hung like a veil over the wooded glades creating a mystical atmosphere. We were accompanied by the soundtrack of crunching leaves below our feet, like a carpet of gold and russet, sprinkled with furry pockets of sweet chestnuts; some of which had split open, showcasing their shiny, smooth wares within. The path continued up a steep bank, past dew covered spider webs which glistened in the autumnal light. The trees opened out in to a clearing and as we approached, the sun’s rays were battling through the thin cloud, creating shards and tunnels of sunlight that dappled the surroundings, seemingly tangible in their definition. The path culminated on a rocky outcrop where perched the small church of San Michele; it’s scaffolding facade an appropriate metaphor to the hidden view below the clouds where we stood. Although a reasonably short walk, the sheer beauty of the woodland made it exceptional and the lack of view only enhanced the impact of what we were lucky enough to see. Even though we were less than an hour from our home, it was good for the soul to get away. A timely trip too, as like everywhere in the world at the moment, the restrictions are slowly encroaching once again.

Links

Strava Route for Roccamonfina ride.

Strava Routefor Amalfi Coast ride.

First Check Up

If you’re only here because you’ve been enjoying reading all about my adventures and looking at pretty pictures then skip on down to my previous post about the Amalfi Coast, I really won’t be offended.

Instead, this is just a quick update about my health. One of the stipulations since finishing cancer treatment earlier this year is that I need to have annual mammograms until I’m 55. Whilst not being the most pleasant of activities, the reassurance year on year will be worth it I’m sure. Last week saw my first one. I’d given it absolutely no thought at all, in fact it was just an inconvenient appointment that hindered my very, busy schedule out here! Whilst driving over to the hospital I was absolutely fine, the song of choice blaring out the speakers, me screeching along at the top of my voice whilst trying to avoid a collision in the usual, crazy Neapolitan traffic! It wasn’t until I was sat in the radiology clinic (with one of those hideous, disposable paper gowns on) waiting for the radiographer to arrive, that it really crossed my mind that it actually might not go well. The earlier positive mood was so easily replaced with doubt and ‘what ifs’ that were only magnified by the clinical surroundings and the huge contraption in front of me waiting to squeeze the life out of my boobs! However the staff were very reassuring and very thorough and after about 40 minutes of trying to get good enough images (because of where the tumour had been) I had another torturous wait whilst the radiologist was shown the images for an immediate verdict. On the plus side at least I wasn’t waiting two weeks!

Fortunately, everything was absolutely fine and the radiographer was happy with the scan. The feeling of dread instantly vanished and my thoughts soon turned from worse case scenarios to whether I’d have mozzarella or ricotta for lunch!

It made me realise how easy it is to slip back in to everyday life. The details of last year slowly fading and it’s not until you’re in a situation like that where memories come flooding back. It’s reminiscent of a nightmare; one of the horrible kind where you wake up in the middle of the night with your heart racing, covered in sweat; seemingly so real. But by the time you get up in the morning you can’t remember any of the details, you only know you experienced it.

I don’t think it’s a bad thing to remind ourselves of the past, in my case the feeling of ‘seize the day’ and ‘make the most of every moment’ can soon be swept up and overlooked by everyday tasks. (Even here in Italy!) Experiencing the worry and dread for those few minutes in the hospital took me back to certain moments last year, like a strange sense of deja vu. Moments where I promised my future self that I would (as cheesy as it sounds) take stock and appreciate the beautiful things in life and not sweat the small stuff. So whilst it’s not particularly pleasant feeling dread and fear, it can certainly help to put things in to perspective. In my case, not constantly beating myself up for not losing the weight I put on as quickly as I would hope, or not getting frustrated by still being last to cycle up a hill. At least I’m out there doing it; enjoying the sun on my face and marvelling at the view from the top.

I’m sure the dread and fear will never completely go, particularly at this time every year, but if it can be turned in to something positive and is a reminder of how far I’ve come, then perhaps it should be allowed in and welcomed warmly from time to time.

For now, I’m off to get a glass of wine and some delicious antipasti because you know what? Life’s too short not to!

The Amalfi Coast

In an unusual and out of character moment, my husband surprised me with a little trip away to the Amalfi coast for my birthday! He would say, the less frequent these acts of romance are, the more impact they have! This trip in particular definitely made an impact!

We left on a Thursday morning and drove the hour and half or so past Naples and up and over the Sorrentine peninsula to our first stop, the town of Ravello. This fabulous little town is slightly less busy than it’s more well known counterparts due to it being perched high up the mountainside, above the hustle and bustle of the coast road and the town of Amalfi. Ravello is a cultural town, with many artists, musicians and writers having visited over the centuries. The most prestigious being Wagner who was awestruck by the beauty of Ravello and as such there is now an annual ‘Ravello Festival’ in his honour, where you can listen to opera singers, orchestral pieces and ballet over a few weeks each year; all with the most beautiful of backdrops!

We wandered the streets, visited Villa Rufolo which is a wonderful mix of crumbling buildings and 19th century exotic gardens with commanding views of the coast far below, and visited the Duomo off the main piazza. The most striking feature of this church was it’s mesmerising pulpit, made of six twisted columns, supported by marble lions and decorated with beautiful mosaics of birds, peacocks and dancing lions.

Lunch was a simple yet delicious seafood affair with an incredible view of the bright blue sky and the dark blue sea, with the green mountains rising high above. After which we moved on to where we were staying for three nights; the gorgeous town of Positano.

Positano is the jewel in the crown of the Amalfi coast. The town spills down the hillside, giving it’s well deserved nickname of the ‘vertical town.’ Many of it’s ‘streets’ are in fact windy staircases and narrow alleys that descend from the coast road at the top of the town, down to the sea front and beaches at the bottom. We left the car in one of the car parks that are seemingly crammed in to any tiny, spare space between the cliffs and the buildings, then headed on foot to the apartment. Mr BND had booked an amazing place called Casa Claudius, with the most breathtaking view. Set in to the cliffs, the living room, kitchen and bedroom were all lovely and cool and with it’s own garden and terrace it was a little haven in the bustling town of Positano.

Not for the unfit though! The 338 steps down to Fornillo beach were fine descending but a bit of a slog coming back up, particularly at night after an Italian feast and a bottle of wine! But it was a wonderful experience heading down to the small beach early on my birthday. When the beach front cafe’s were just waking up and shaking off the sand for the day ahead; with only a couple of locals for company; heading in to the crystal clear water and watching the sunrise over the headland, slowly basking the little bay and it’s watch tower in warm sunlight. It was a wonderful way to start the day and a truly special moment that I won’t ever forget. It was definitely worth the climb back up to the apartment.

During our stay we walked all over Positano, never tiring of exploring the cute little alleyways and steps. We also took a passenger ferry along the coast to the town of Amalfi, which despite being only a few miles down the road had a distinctly different feel. It felt much busier and more touristy than Positano. But a very pleasurable few hours were had exploring this town and eating pizza on the sea front.

Undoubtedly though, the highlight of the trip was walking the’ Sentiero degli Dei’ or the ‘Path of the Gods.’ Countryside walks don’t get any more scenic than this! The official route goes from Bomerano to Nocelle, two small villages 500 metres up the mountainside. The tourist websites recommend walking the route east to west for the best views and getting the bus back to the start. However, we decided to forgo the two hours on a sweaty bus and instead decided to do the path in both directions. First though we had to get up to Nocelle, the ‘end’ of the path. The 500 metre climb up was a series of energy sapping steps (which I soon lost count of) to the village of Montepertuso, where we then followed a steep road for a couple of miles to the village of Nocelle. This tiny little hill top village epitomises Italian life. Only accessed by road in recent times, villagers had to walk up the hundreds of steps to get to Nocelle making a big food shop a serious workout! We saw donkeys still being used to transport building materials to a building site at the top of the village.

The footpath itself begins just past a shack with an arch announcing the ‘Path of the Gods’ and then winds it’s way along the cliff side for 7km or so to the town of Bomerano. The scenery begun wild and rugged before becoming more agricultural with a lot of the hill side being terraced so crops could grow. The path dips in and out of woodland which provides some much needed relief from the hot sun, then pops out to round a rocky headland where the world seemingly opens up below and the beautiful view of the coastline and sea just takes your breath away. From that high up the boats down on the water were tiny little white dots far below and we truly felt we were on top of the world. At every twist and turn there is another spectacular view to drink in. Unfortunately, there had been some wild fires, so large swathes of the mountainside were a bleak, desolate expanse, the juxtaposition magnified even more so by the bright blue of the sea and sky. The path in these sections had no apparent edge and no trees or foliage to separate you from the sheer drop to the side; which resulted in a few leg-jellifying moments!

Upon reaching Bomerano we were welcomed by the view of a small restaurant where we wolfed down some much needed sustenance then turned round and headed back! The whole walk was 14 miles in total with about 4,000 feet of climbing, a feat of endurance the likes of which I hadn’t done for a long time! (Our route.) It was without doubt the most beautiful walk I’ve ever done though and I highly recommend doing the ‘Path of the Gods’ if you find yourself in this part of the world, but perhaps consider the bus option after all!

That evening we dined at Chez Black, a beautiful restaurant on the beach front in Positano, where the interior is decorated in the style of a vintage ship with lots of wood, mirrors and black and white photos of famous people adorning the walls. For once we didn’t feel bad about eating the full Italian shebang, (antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci) we’d decided we’d definitely earned it! Boy did it taste good! It was truly a birthday trip to remember and one that’ll be hard to top next year!

Procida – a little gem in the Gulf of Naples

When we moved to Italy in February we never imagined it would be six months before we had our first visitor from the UK! Luckily though, all the planets aligned and my wonderful Mum arrived for a few days holiday last week. If she thought she was here to relax, she could think again! After an early start on the first morning we were soon paddling across the crystal clear, smooth waters of the bay around Bacoli in our kayak; exploring caves, tunnels and tiny little beaches. The second day was no more restful, as off to the mountains we went for a 6 mile walk (mainly uphill!) in quite considerable heat with a visit to the little village of Valogno on the way back. This sleepy, hill-top village is known as a Borgo d’arte due to the street murals which adorn so many of the buildings. It was the idea of two art students who returned from art college to their little village in an attempt to attract visitors. It’s a lovely place to wander around and admire the talented pieces of art.

The following day was another full on adventure. We drove down to Pozzouli from where we caught the ferry to the small island of Procida. Before moving to this area, Procida wasn’t somewhere I’d heard of but I believe it should be on everyone’s list when they come to the Naples area. It’s one of the Flegrean islands off the coast of Naples and at 1.6 square miles in size it’s pretty cute! The population is around 10,500 and is home to many fishermen and their families. It’s far less touristy than the famous island of Capri and larger neighbour of Ischia. The ferry took us in to the main port on the north side of the island from where we walked along the front and followed the narrow road, dodging cars and mopeds by jumping in doorways, to get to the very pretty harbour of Corricella. After a brief coffee stop we continued walking to the highest point on the island known as Terra Murata. This is a fortified citadel dating back to the 16th century which is when the walls were built to help keep the islanders safe from invasion. Nowadays you can climb the steep, cobbled path to the main gate of the Terra Murata where there is a fabulous vista looking down over the beautiful harbour of Corricella. A few moments here drinking in the gorgeous view of the colourful houses that tumble down to the clear waters of the marina, is a must. The houses are a delightful mix of colours so that traditionally the fishermen could spot their home easily from sea.

We continued up and in to the Terra Murata itself, which is like stepping back in time. It’s a hotch potch of little medieval streets, crammed with houses that are still lived in today. Occasionally the tall buildings open out to give you wonderful views back across the bay of Naples. Tucked away around a quiet corner, squeezed in amongst other buildings is the Abbey of San Michele Archangelo. There’s been a Benedictine abbey on this site since the 11th century but the current structure dates back to the 16th century. The lower floors of the complex house a museum but the Abbey itself is as it would have been for years and it offered a cool, haven as we looked around. The unassuming exterior gave no indication to the elaborate interior, with it’s plethora of altars, statues and paintings. It was a feast for the eyes everywhere you looked; even more so due to the floral displays that were left behind from a recent wedding.

Back out in the hot sunshine we wandered back down to the harbour and decided to listen to the grumblings in our tummies and stop for refreshment! A friend had recommended a place for lunch called Feugo Ristorante, which with it’s tables right on the quayside, was the perfect place to enjoy a bite to eat and a glass of crisp, white wine. The locals and visitors alike, coming and going along the harbour made for excellent entertainment for our lazy lunch. But we couldn’t sit about all afternoon! Our next stop was the other end of the island where we walked up a hill and down the other side to a causeway which attaches the small islet of Vivara to Procida. This crescent shaped island is a nature reserve made of high rocks and covered in trees, the way it pops up out of the water makes it look like something that wouldn’t look amiss in a Jurassic Park film. Unfortunately it’s currently closed so we couldn’t get on to the island but watching the boats bobbing about the bay from the causeway made the walk worthwhile.

Nearby Marina Chiaiolella was the next refreshment stop, which is another pretty little harbour and the perfect backdrop for a drink and ice cream. Our time on the island soon came to an end and it was time to get the ferry back to the mainland. If you’re ever in this part of the world then I highly recommend a visit to Procida, a cute little island made even more special by exploring it with my Mumma.

Puglia Road Trip – Part 3

Alberobello and Matera

The final part of our road trip around northern Puglia took us deep in to the heart of the Itria Valley and ‘Trulli’ country. Trulli are cute little dwellings that look as if they’re constructed just for gnomes! They are limestone, mortarless buildings that have been built using a method of construction that dates back thousands of years. Originally built as tombs or store buildings all over the Itria valley, thanks to the large limestone blocks that are found in every field, their number increased in the 16th century when the current count of Conversano of the Acquaviva d’Aragona family, the feudal lords of the area, dictated that the people construct their homes in this manner so that they can easily be torn down and thus avoid paying the newly introduced tax on all unauthorised settlements. In the 1700’s the feudal system was abolished and the construction of Trulli declined. Alberobello is known as the capital of the trulli, due to the 1500 or so that spill down the hillside in the town, some dating back to the 14th century. As we headed south on our journey from Castel del Monte, the landscape became more fertile and more populated, with little clusters of trulli popping up more and more regularly. It was a delight driving along and spotting the conical roofs poking up out of the olive groves, their white washed walls a stark contrast against the bright blue sky. It was a trullo that we were headed for, just outside Alberobello. Yearning for a proper bed and an inside bathroom, our base for the next couple of days was Trulli Villa Gloria. It’s a recently renovated trullo with an extension containing a bathroom and kitchen, situated in it’s own secluded olive grove with everything you could possibly need for a self catering stay. Signora Rosa and Signor Michele were fabulous hosts, the language barrier not a problem with sign language and lots of nodding and smiling on our part! Rosa brought us a delicious breakfast each day and even when I locked us out, had to climb over the wall and walk the mile or so up the road to her house to embarrassingly ask to be let back in, she had a smile on her face and nothing was too much trouble.

Our Trullo

From here we visited a few of the local towns including Alberobello which is now a big tourist trap, attracting millions of visitors every year. This summer must have been quieter as there was mainly only Italians but we couldn’t believe how busy it was, especially after how quiet the previous destinations were. Luckily we got up early and were exploring the quaint, trulli lined streets before the Italian holiday makers had even had their first espresso. The Rione Monti is the more touristy of the trulli neighbourhoods within the town and has the most trulli cascading down the hillside, most of which are now souvenir shops. But on the hill the other side of the main street is Rione Aia Piccola which is much less commercialised and is like stepping back in time. Many of these 400 dwellings are still inhabited and strolling round this area was delightful.

We also visited Ostuni and Locorotundo, both hilltop towns with gorgeous historical centres where the streets narrow and you lose all sense of direction in the labyrinth of steps and alleyways. The white buildings are punctuated by bright pots of flowers or the colourful ceramics which this area is known for.

Having had enough of the nearly unbearable heat one afternoon, we decided to go underground and visit the caves at Castellana Grotte. Where we undertook a tour in English which guided us along the 3km of the cave system, deep under the Itria Valley. A truly magnificent natural phenomenon which began to form 90 million years ago! We also learnt from our tour guide that all of the river systems in Puglia are underground due to the porous limestone, a fact which seemed so obvious but not something we’d actually noticed through the lack of rivers!

Our final destination on our trip was actually just over the border from Puglia, in Basilicata. The town of Matera seemingly just rises up out of the cliffs. The old town, known as the Sassi, is a tangle of cave dwellings and is thought to be one of the oldest inhabited towns in the world. Originally the natural grottoes were embellished to provide homes for locals and as the settlement grew, canals and sewage systems were cleverly installed. The town was the prosperous centre of Basilicata from 1663 until 1806 when things started to decline. A huge increase in the population forced many inhabitants to resort to poorly sanitised caves that were only really good enough for livestock. The rocketing population increase and terrible living conditions forced infant mortality rate to 50%. It became such a scandal that finally the authorities stepped in and during the late 1950’s the 15,000 inhabitants were relocated to new government housing. It’s shocking to think that in such recent times this happened. The town lay deserted for a number of years until a recent regeneration; it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993 and exploded on to the tourist map with a plethora of hotels and restaurants all offering a cave dwelling experience. It’s haunting past makes for a very thought provoking wander around the town, where you want to take delight in so many aspects but feel so sorry for the thousands of people that lived and died there. We stayed in a lovely hotel called Locanda di San Martino which contained a thermae spa below it’s ground floor flagstones which dates back to Roman times. The town was really quite busy and because of it’s inland position the temperatures were soaring. So a walk round and a visit to a traditional cave dwelling was about all that we managed. But the following morning we got up early and made our way through the quiet streets to a footpath that zigged zagged it’s way down from the town in to the adjacent gorge, across a rope bridge and up the cliff the other side. It was the best time of day to do it as the gorge was still in shade and we witnessed the rising sun hitting the side of the Sassi, lighting up the whole town. It was well worth the hike! That heralded the end of our trip, so after breakfast we hit the road and spent the journey marvelling at the wonderful places we visited….and of course planning a return trip or two!

Puglia Road Trip – Part 2

Castel del Monte

On our way to our next destination we went via Lucera, another pretty Puglian town which was once a prosperous Roman centre dating back to the 4th century BC. It’ s home to the Swabian-Angevin Fortress. This 13th century reinforced fort is huge! It’s pentagonal walls measure 1km in circumference and are interspersed with 24 towers! Sitting on the highest point for miles around it’s sheer size is tantamount to how powerful this fascinating town used to be. Unfortunately, like most lesser known Italian historical sites it isn’t particularly well maintained, but for a very small fee you can go inside and up one of the towers to really appreciate the size of this settlement. The castle was built by Frederick II, who after being excommunicated by the Pope in the thirteenth century, decided to boost his supporters by importing 20,000 Sicilian Arabs to Lucera, a bold move by the Christian monarch as he allowed them to build mosques and practice their religion less than 300km away from Rome. Their prosperity was short lived however, as in 1300 Charles II killed most of the Muslim population and built the Duomo on the site of their largest mosque. Lucera itself has a lovely old town centre, with sand coloured buildings and smooth flagstones underfoot, worn from centuries of use. It’s a town with such a fascinating history but so far removed from the tourist trail that it was a delight to visit.

Our home for the next two nights was Agriturismo Sei Carri, near to Castel del Monte. This restaurant was tucked away at the end of a track and also offered camping spaces with electricity and a lovely view of the castle itself perched on top of it’s hill. Castel del Monte is a geometric, otherworldly looking structure perched atop a hill which radiates an omnipresence for miles around. This UNESCO World heritage site is shrouded in mystery due to the fact that no one knows why Frederick II built this perfectly octagonal structure; no one has ever lived in it, it’s in the middle of nowhere miles from any towns or settlements and has no defensive characteristics one would expect from a 13th century castle. But striking it is! We spent our first afternoon there walking from the campsite, across the fields, through the trees and up the hill to the castle itself. Due to our chosen route we managed to avoid the crowds until we were up at the top, where they’d swarmed to see this beautiful structure. We walked back via the road where we came across a pack of stray dogs, who after their initial barking, luckily didn’t seem too fussed by us. That night, the view through the mozzie net was of the twinkling lights of Trani far below at the coast and the castle all lit up atop it’s perch, even more mysterious and intriguing in the darkness.

Castel del Monte
The view of the castle from our camping spot
The restaurant

We were treated to another wonderful sun rise where the bright orange ball slowly crept up over the horizon alongside the castle, painting the sky with such gorgeous hues. We’d decided to go for a bike ride that day, so wanted to leave early. The plan was to hit the road for seven o’clock so we could get back for our lunch reservation at half past one. We set off in the cool morning air down the track to the main road. The memory of the pack of dogs soon came back to me and I realised we had to cross their path, however, as they seemed quite calm whilst we were on foot the previous day I wasn’t too concerned………..but that soon changed! They saw us approaching and despite our coaxing and gentle words promising not to hurt them they decided to take umbrage with our bikes. Mr BND was slightly ahead so ran the gauntlet first, like a pack of hyenas they preyed on the weakest at the back and before I knew it I was pedalling as fast as I’ve ever pedalled with snarling, snapping teeth right on by back wheel, my husband’s shouts of ‘pedal faster!’ being drowned out by the animals and the blood pumping in my ears. My plaintive cries soon turned in to aggressive shouts which had absolutely no effect whatsoever and finally they gave up the chase and all that was left was the sound of our hugely increased breathing! I think it was the most harrowing experience ever. We spent the rest of the ride flinching at every stray dog we came across, preparing to put our sprint technique to the test, but all the others didn’t bat an eyelid. Talk about unusual training methods!

Our route took us through Parco Nazionale dell’Alta Murgia which wasn’t quite what we were expecting. It was a vast, arid landscape with hardly any towns or villages, little shelter and moor-like countryside. Whilst being quite striking and pretty in it’s own right it had a lunar atmosphere to it and wasn’t really conducive to a 65 mile bike ride in the heat. Particularly on the way back when we had a 5 mile climb to contend with and hardly any water left! We did visit two gorgeous towns though, the other side of the National Park, Altamura and Gravina in Puglia; the former is famous in Puglia for it’s bread and the latter has a higgledy, piggledy historical centre beside a gorge which is bridged by an ancient aqueduct. Both towns were a welcome relief to an otherwise quiet and remote ride.

Inside Gravina’s old town
Gravina’s symbol the cola cola. A terrcotta whistle.
The bell tower in Altamura
Exploring the old, narrow streets
Gravina in Puglia
Altamura’s Duomo
Aqueduct in Gravina

Of course we also had the dogs to contend with on our inbound journey. But we had a plan of action! We’d decided we’d go up to the castle, where Mr BND would go off piste and ride the downhill gravel tracks we walked the previous day to circumvent the dogs, pick up the van and meet me (a strictly tarmac lover) at the end of the road to ensure my safe return. A plan which was not executed as well as it was conjured up. The inevitable puncture occurred and then on his return to the campsite, (whilst I’m waiting at the end of the road like a preying mantis ready to leg it out of there at the first sign of our canine foes) we realise I have the van keys! I really thought this day couldn’t have gone any worse. So I hide my bike and begin the walk down the road armed with a stick (like that would do any good), finally though, our luck turns and a car pulled off the main road which I flagged down and in very garbled ‘Englitalian’ try and convey my sticky situation to the four bewildered faces peering back at me. I think they got the gist, so I clambered in to the back seat, me a sweaty, crazed mess; them, beautifully dressed up for their lunch out! As we’re travelling down the road through the dogs territory whilst I’m trying to convey how ferocious they are, there isn’t a tail or nose in sight! So we could have cycled down after all! We were only 45 minutes late for our lunch reservation in the end and having given our table away, in the true hospitable Italain fashion they made nothing of it and we tucked in to a proper, authentic Puglian lunch where the food kept coming and the wine kept flowing. Finally things were on the up! That was quite enough adventure for one day, so we relaxed by the van where the lazy afternoon turned into evening and as the hubbub of other diners dissipated (hours after their arrival…lunch is a serious affair here!) we were left alone in the camping area with the view of the castle and the tinkling of the sheep and goat bells as the old farmer drove them back across the fields in front of us. An early night was in order as we discussed our destination for the next leg of our trip……………

Puglia Road Trip – Part 1

Gargano National Park

Apologies for the lull in posts. We’ve gone native and taken a leaf out of the Italian’s book. Lots of things grind to a halt in August, factories close down, shops put up their shutters and most people seem to slide to the coast like paperclips to a magnet. Who can blame them really? When the temperatures are mid to high thirties with humidity off the scale it seems the sensible thing to do. So if you can’t beat them, join them.

It was for this reason we decided to pack up the van and hit the road, on a due east heading, destination Puglia, first stop Gargano National Park. As you look at Italy on a map, there’s a slight bulge on the east coast, ‘mid-calf’ on the leg of Italy. It’s a rocky outcrop predominantly covered by the Gargano National Park, a mountainous, wild landscape full of dense pine forests and rocky spurs. Our planned destination for three nights was an agriturismo with restaurant and campsite near the more populated coastline. However, when we got there it was one huge building site with no services available so plan B it was! Which consisted of a quick search for nearby campsites only to be faced with a barrage of busy camping village after camping village. They’re great if you have kids and want to be based near the beach for a while but it wasn’t really what we had in mind. But being the main tourist season beggars couldn’t be choosers and we booked and paid for two nights at a camping village just outside Peschici, down a steep winding road. It was a means to an end and the following day we had a fabulous bike ride from our campsite to Vieste, sixteen miles round the coast. The steep start was a shock to the system but eventually it became more rolling and we were pedalling on a road that snaked along the coastline representing a rollercoaster; climbing and dipping, flowing round corners and before we knew it we were cruising along the front in Vieste, sandwiched between the lidos and beach on one side and a plethora of restaurants the other. Our destination was the old town though; past the marina and up a hill on the most easterly spit of land sits a beautiful town, full of whitewashed buildings and narrow little streets that seem to naturally perch on top of the rock as it must have done for centuries previously. We locked our bikes up, changed our shoes and spent the next few hours exploring the streets of this gorgeous little town. Apart from a handful of other visitors we nearly had it to ourselves.

Listening to the grumbles in our tummies we had lunch in the nearest trattoria and what a find it was. It was called La Teresina and was a quintessential Italian restaurant with tables under a vine covered pergola and walls adorned with pottery jugs and ceramics. We had bruschetta to start which was as fresh as a daisy, followed by the most delicious pasta dish I’ve had since being in the country. The Puglian pasta speciality is orecchiette, named so because their shape represents small ears, this was served in a prawn and rocket tomato sauce and was absolutely divine! The ride back was considerably harder than the ride there. I kept telling myself it was because of the now searing heat, and not due to the big lunch with a glass of wine!

Early that evening, we decided to escape. Even though we’d paid for that night we’d had enough of the campsite village life and decided to break free! It felt like we were running away, so it was with excitement and giddiness that we packed everything up (the quickest we’ve done so!) and before we knew it we were on the road again! We decided to just drive and look for somewhere to park as we went along. We left the busy coast behind and took a road that went across some of the wilderness of the National Park, it was an absolutely beautiful drive. The sun was setting behind the hills, casting the forest in a warm glow, the temperature had dropped to a pleasant warmth with patches of fresh, cool air and through our open windows our nostrils were assaulted by the aromatic smell of the pine forest as we wound along a ridge and dropped in to the valley beyond. Soon the wild pine forest gave way to more agricultural land and acre upon acre of olive groves for as far as the eye could see. The ancient olive trees stood behind their stone walls like wizened old men, sat in the same spot for years and years, each one so different; in the fading light I half expected them to come to life like characterful trolls from a movie scene!

We skirted round Vieste and then peeled off on to a quiet road that hugged the coastline and soon came across our camping spot for the night. A gravel parking area beside the road, on a cliff high above the sea, next to the Torre dell’Aglio, a fortified tower in a commanding position gaurding the coastline. This location was poles apart from where we’d been the night before, no one else in sight and all we could hear was the reassuring song of the cicadas and the lapping of the waves down in the now black abyss below us, a soundtrack that we went to sleep to as the gentle sea breeze blew through the open van door.

The next morning we rose before the sun and walked round to the concrete platform in front of the tower where we watched the most beautiful sunrise over the ocean, it was one of those special moments which you feel so privileged to witness and a fitting end to our stay in this part of Puglia. We’ve only scratched the surface so will definitely be back. But for now our next destination on our road trip was calling………

Home, at last!

We’ve finally been reunited with all our lovely belongings after five months apart. I don’t think I’ve ever been so pleased to see the view of three, sweaty removal men swing in to our new road and pull up outside our beautiful new home here in Italy! If it wasn’t for their previously mentioned state, I could have kissed them!!

Our new home
First night on the terrace
Journey’s End: an aptly named bottle of wine

After a frenetic few days unpacking, we’ve got things sorted and it feels so nice to be settled. Despite the odd hiccup along the way, like Mr BND flooding the kitchen because he forgot he’d left the tap on – even the removal men knew to stay quiet and out of the way – the whole process went swimmingly (!) well. I was even reduced to tears by soft furnishings at one point (not something I thought would ever happen) when I opened a box to find all our bed linen beautifully washed and ironed by my wonderful Mum. Climbing in to our own bed that night was the best feeling ever! So now I feel like our Italian life can start in earnest. The previous few months have certainly been an adventure but now it’s the real deal.

I keep getting asked what I plan on doing with my days, to be honest I’m not sure I’ve got time to fit everything in! I want to do more of this. I’ve decided I love writing and I’m excited by the prospect of seeing where it could take me. Even if it’s just you reading my ramblings, then so be it.

We’ve also got a fantastic group of friends down here already, everyone has been so welcoming and we feel like part of the community, so there’s always someone to catch up with over a coffee, go to the beach with for breakfast or pop over to the island of Ischia to go to the spa for the day! (OK, that last one was a one off treat and not a weekly occurrence, before you shut down the screen and stop reading out of protest!) It’s not without it’s tribulations here; like running the gauntlet as you cycle down the main road, taking your life in your hands. Perhaps a slight exaggeration, but the first time we encountered the ginormous Rottweiler that guards the gateway round the corner, Mr BND screamed like a girl and my repressed fear of dogs resurfaced as my life flashed before our eyes. So now, we have to time our pedal stroke to reach maximum velocity at the right point to enable us to sail past his gateway at a speed where his bulk means he can’t chase us. Unfortunately it means we arrive everywhere a sweaty mess but on the other hand it certainly helps to wake us up of a morning! This isn’t the first dog/cycling encounter we’ve had. On our first proper bike ride here early one morning, we headed south to where it gets a bit lumpy and on one particular climb a group of stray dogs were spread out across the road up ahead. They made a lot of noise and snapped at our heels, causing my heart rate to reach a new, unprecedented high and the fastest I’ve cycled up that particular hill. It could be the new performance enhancing method of the cycling world! Never a dull moment.

It’s a world of extremes here, a life caught between rich and poor. Something that’s so evident on early morning bike rides, when you’re cycling along amidst mountains of rubbish on the road side – a sight that we’ve noticed we’ve already become desensitised to – with little traffic on the roads except for the battered old people carriers and minibuses stopping to pick up the many migrant workers looking for labour by the roadside, before turning a corner and passing a luxury beach club that wouldn’t look out of place in the glossy fashion magazines. You could be whizzing past a tall block of flats with many occupants apparent from the vast amount of washing fluttering on the washing lines on balconies, then by the next pedal stroke you’re passing a huge, pristine gated mansion with a brand new car on the drive and a swimming pool alongside. There’s juxtapositions everywhere. There’s a point on my morning route where you crest a hill and have a wonderful view of Baia peninsula sprawled out below, the morning sunlight is glinting off the ocean that stretches across to the rocky island of Ischia and you can make out the thousands of buoys on Lago Fusaro announcing the location of mussel pots that supply the various roadside shacks with their fresh, delicious produce. A sight that makes me smile every time. Until your eyes drift down to the roadside. The panorama is lined with piles of litter and rubbish dumped by the road side, ironically, the disgusting nature of the foreground enhances the beauty of the landscape. Then it’s whizzed past and you’re on the winding, gradual descent down to sea level. It’s such a shame, but much too big a task to be tackled by any one individual so it becomes par for the course and you soon stop noticing it.

Some early morning ride photos

Whilst there’s a few areas that are rough round the edges within our local vicinity, there’s some absolutely gorgeous places too. We soon realised that generally the locals look after their houses and their businesses really well, resulting in some fabulous little restaurants and gorgeous beach front clubs where you can sip on a cocktail and watch the sun just melt away in to the sea, leaving it’s soft red hue, as a reminder of it’s presence, plastered across the huge sky. Every time we witness it, we comment on how lucky we are to be here. It’s moments like that, surrounded by friends, which make the low points worth it. I’m writing this the day before we fly back to the UK for four nights. Soon, not only will we have been reunited with our belongings, we’ll soon be reunited with our families too and I just cannot wait!

Paestum: a hidden gem of Campania

Everyone’s heard of Amalfi and Sorrento, the gorgeous towns that cling to the cliffs above a beautiful blue sea to the south of Naples. Everyone’s also heard of Pompei and Herculaneum too, the wonderful ancient sites that we’re able to walk around and learn about our previous civilisations. All are places that, justifiably, attract millions of visitors each year (don’t get me wrong we loved our trip to Sorrento a few weeks ago, you can read about it here and we are yet to explore Amalfi and Positano) but it’s also nice to get off the beaten track on occasion. So that being said what if you could combine the two? Take the best bits of the coastal towns and add a slice of history as well. If this sounds up you’re street then a visit to Paestum is a must.

Paestum is about an hour down the coast from Salerno, whilst it hasn’t got the cliffs of the Sorrentine peninsula, it does have the beaches and history aplenty. We were joined by some fellow VW campervanners for the weekend; friend’s Liam and Micha and their five month old puppy called Rhea. Our destination was Camping Villagio dei Pini, camping village of pines, which needless to say, was nestled amongst a beautiful pine forest, offering blissful relief from the hot sun. The campsite is quite large with a shop, restaurant and cafe and offers pitches for tents, caravans, motor homes as well as bungalows to rent. It was already quite busy, with many families already set up for the weekend. It’s main draw is it’s location, right on the beach and walking distance to everything in the local village and the historical ruins.

Saturday morning was spent exploring the beautiful Archaeological Park of Paestum which has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998. The site dates back to 600 BC when Greek settlers founded the city and called it Poseidonia, the temples and walls were attributed to this era but the site was developed hugely by the Romans who occupied the city in 273 BC and renamed it Paestum. Remains of the city they created can be seen today, with many buildings, spas, a forum and amphitheatre all in evidence. The city was abandoned between 700 and 900 AD until it was rediscovered by archaeologists centuries later. There’s three main temples that tower above the rest of the crumbled ruins and are surprisingly still very much intact; an astonishing fact when you consider they’re two and half thousand years old! The largest is the Temple of Neptune built around 460 BC, which is accompanied by the Basilica, the oldest of the temples that was built from 560 to 520 BC. Due to it’s different construction and layout, early archaeologists called it a basilica but today it’s believed to have been another temple dedicated to Hera, the wife of Zeus. The third temple sits at the far end of the site on a small hill that was artificially expanded at the time of construction in 500 BC and was dedicated to the Greek god Athena, later to be Minnerva under the Roman rule. The architecture of these temples was so influential in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries when many of the European buildings we know so well were being designed; in particular, the use of Doric and Ionic columns.

We spent a very pleasant couple of hours walking around the site. I’d highly recommend downloading the free app which you can use as an audio guide to learn about most of the buildings as you go along. The ticket also includes entry in to the museum down the road where many of the artefacts are housed. We returned the following morning to visit the museum and are really pleased we did, it helps add detail to the site’s visit. We walked back towards the village, campsite and next destination.

We’d been recommended to visit the local Buffalo farm and dairy called Barlotti , a company that had been operating since the early 1900’s; we’re so pleased we did! The bustling farm yard was a hive of activity with boxes of mozzarella being loaded on to delivery vans, locals parking up and forming the typical Italian ‘queue’ to collect their fresh mozzarella from the small shop and tourists visiting the restaurant and coffee shop. We had a table booked for lunch outside on the terrace, but as we were early we had a walk around the farm to see the animals that were responsible for the delicious white balls of cheese that this area is so well known for. It was wonderful to see the buffaloes themselves, particularly the calves who were as inquisitive towards us (especially Rhea) as we were to them. The restaurant and terrace is right next to the cattle pens so as you’re sat enjoying your meal, the occasional acrid buffalo smell drifts across to assault your nostrils, acting as a constant reminder of how fresh the dairy products are. Under the beautiful vine covered pergola we demolished a delicious lunch; we shared antipasti consisting of local meats, fresh tomatoes and a 1kg ball of mozzarella served in a special dish and cut at the table. It was absolutely divine. It has a creamy, yoghurty taste which I’ve never encountered in mozzarella back at home and as your knife slices through it, a delicious creamy liquid oozes out which cries out to be mopped up by a chunk of bread. We were in heaven! I then had a delicious ricotta filled ravioli followed by their pear and ricotta buffalo gelato.

The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing on the beach where, later on, we were treated to the most beautiful sunset, after which we walked in to the town square where we’d heard there was some live music. What we found though, left quite a lot to be desired and couldn’t really be likened to music at all! So we carried on to Lido Vin.gi 79, a great bar on the beach which epitomises the beach shack look with white pallet furniture and fairy lights. A great way to end the day!

Sunday begun in the most wonderful way. The sea was as calm as a mill pond so we decided to test out our most recent purchase of an inflatable kayak. I’m pleased to say that no one drowned and we are still married, so a successful maiden voyage in my eyes! As we paddled out over the crystal clear water, past the buoys marking the safe swimming area, I noticed a large white shape in the water, the size of a football. Then another one, and another one. On closer inspection they were huge jelly fish just floating and bobbing around beneath us like extra terrestrial organisms. There were hundreds of them and they were just fascinating to see. Out on the calm water, just us and these other-wordly creatures was absolutely wonderful and a great way to start the day. By the time we got ashore there were plenty of locals already set up for a day on the beach, so we packed up camp, visited the museum and headed north, stopping for some lunch in Salerno. A weekend with great company, delicious food and fantastic sights…what’s not to like!