The last few weeks certainly haven’t been what I imagined when we moved to Italy. We’re nearly three weeks in to the restrictions here but despite only being able to leave the flat to go to the supermarket, the days have gone surprisingly quickly. A positive aspect that has blossomed from the sadness and horror of the current global situation is the sense of community and increase in virtual socialising. It’s so nice to hear how modern day technology is being embraced to keep in touch with friends and family much more than our usual, busy lives would normally allow.
Why my university friends and I haven’t arranged ‘pub nights’ before via a group video call is beyond me! We’ve been living all over the country for a few years now, only managing to all get together once or twice a year if we’re lucky. But in the last couple of weeks, we’ve individually fired up laptops, poured a glass of wine and met up in our virtual pub and had a good old natter with the guaranteed jaw-aching laughter that ensues.
Group family chats and calls have also increased in numbers, with the sharing of funny videos and photos to keep the moral up. The addition of Scrabble and Quiz competitions helps to keep boredom at bay and allows those who have one to exercise their competitive spirit, whilst maintaining their social distancing requirements.
Here in Ferrara, the barricade of face masks and gloves hasn’t completely dampened the community spirit, with people still greeting each other and looking out for one another. With the protective clothing and strict rules to obey, it would be all too easy to turn away and ignore everyone else.
Back in England hearing about how communities are pulling together to provide services for everyone warms the cockles. The little village pub who are providing take-away meals and grocery supplies. The farm shops delivering veg boxes to those that can’t get out. Most of all, the 750,000 volunteers the NHS have had to assist in some way. All of these things help you to realise the world isn’t such a bad place after all. Yes there’s the selfish few who stock pile and then throw away mountains of food, or cough at Police officers or throw big house parties and BBQs, but I’m sure these are in the minority.
There’s the usual critique of how the situation has been handled, in today’s world it’s so easy to criticise and speak up about the negatives but overlook the positives. Praise is a much more powerful tool than criticism in my eyes. It can make someone’s day and spread some joy, it can encourage more positive actions and is much more fun to deliver than criticism.
There’s been a lot of talk about how our country isn’t what it used to be. But the last few days have shown us otherwise. Remember Sundays when you were a child, shops were all shut, roads were quiet and it was all about family time? Sound familiar? Or when you wondered how someone was, so you looked up their number, sat by the phone and actually spoke to them, rather than it be a fleeting thought that you must squeeze in a text at some point in the near future or a rushed conversation on a packed train.
I’ve no doubt life will return to normal, the status quo will resume but I hope we learn something from this. If nothing else, I hope we stop and make the time for others. Whether it’s family, friends, loved ones, neighbours or strangers. Just stop and reach out to them. Ask how they are. Or if they need anything. You don’t know what a difference it could make.
I hadn’t planned to write any of that today. I was going to tell you a bit about the history of Ferrara, but in the grand scheme of things it seems a bit irrelevant at the moment. I hope you’re all staying healthy and safe. There’ll soon come a time when this is all behind us and we’ll remember it with heavy hearts but also smiles, for the joy we brought to each other’s lives and for it bringing us all closer together when we’ve never been further apart.
Unsurprisingly there hasn’t been much to write about recently. But quite a few people have been in touch to see how things are going over here, so thought I’d put an update on. It’s all fine! From a health point of view, my immune system returned to a normal level a month after finishing chemotherapy back in September, so I’m no more at risk of catching the virus then anyone else now. The figure of people infected in our province is still quite low in comparison to the rest of the country and now other countries too which is reassuring.
From a social point of view the term ‘lockdown’ is being used quite a lot in the media but it isn’t quite the situation it conjures up in one’s mind, well not here anyway. We are still allowed to leave the flat, we’re not under house arrest. The authorities just don’t recommend leaving unless it’s to shop for essentials, work or an emergency. If you’re stopped by the police you just need to have certain paperwork to prove as such. So I’ve been popping to the supermarket most days on Giuseppe to get some supplies and to get some fresh air. The flat doesn’t have a balcony or any outdoor space so it’s nice to get out. Until Saturday, the city walls and public spaces were still open so we could go for a run or walk around the city, but the authorities have now closed all of these. So I’ve resorted to running or walking laps of the big piazza at the end of the street.
The closed piazza I’ve been running round the edge of.
The supermarkets have introduced restrictions on how many people are allowed in at once, so occasionally we have to wait outside. There’s also a one metre rule which must be obeyed everywhere. But the supermarkets and food shops have remained fully stocked throughout, with no visible panic buying at all. Apart from the face masks, gloves and more space, you wouldn’t really know there was anything amiss. Common sense seems to be prevailing and everyone seems quite content. The enforced closures of other shops, bars and restaurants seems to sit well with the Italian ethos towards work!
Unfortunately I’m yet to hear opera singing from balconies, or communal harmonising up and down streets, (as seen on internet clips in other parts of Italy). But yesterday, as I was on my 11th lap of the piazza, a group of nuns were hanging a decorated sheet from their balcony painted with a rainbow and the saying ‘Andra Tutto Benne’ meaning ‘All will be well.’ Something that has cropped up around town, obviously created by young children and adults a like in an attempt to keep spirits high.
With the move to Naples on hold until the situation changes, I plan to fill my time by learning (or attempting to) some Italian, reading, getting out in the sunshine when possible and learning a bit about the wonderful city that we find ourselves in. Some of which I’ll share in my next post along with some photos. So wherever you’re reading this from I hope you manage to stay safe, happy and healthy.
This last week has been quite eventful one way or another! We’ve recently received the news that Mr BND has been offered a more senior position, which is absolutely fantastic and I couldn’t be prouder of him. But it does mean that the job here is no longer suitable. Oh dear! We suffered a few days of not knowing where we’re going to end up. (I say suffer, the sunshine, pasta, pizza and vino rosso have helped to ease the uncertainty!) It’s something I’ve managed to get used to more recently, plans changing. Previously I couldn’t handle anything putting a spanner in the works when it came to my well constructed plans. But it’s another positive outcome of recent events; being able to appreciate the flexibility of situations, be more spontaneous and living more in the moment rather then planning too far ahead. All attributes that are necessary when it comes to my husband’s line of work.
So after much speculation of where we’d end up and wondering how we’d breach the subject with everyone at home if a move back was imminent (an awkward option considering our rather large Italian-themed leaving party only a couple of weeks ago!) we discovered we are to head a few hours South to near Naples! Phew, still Italy at least. I feel a bit cheated of time in this lovely city and one of my initial thoughts was whether my new bike Giuseppe could come too! (Something that is still to be decided!) But disappointment was very short lived and excitement for our new destination soon grew. We’re set to move next month. So we decided to cram as much in as possible up here. (Visiting places I mean, not food into our mouths!)
It was quite a short conversation about where to spend our weekend, we decided to go to Venice. A controversial decision for some I’m sure considering the Corona Virus situation, but here life was carrying on as normal, there was no mass hysteria, no panic buying loo roll or empty shelves in the supermarkets so we decided to be sensible but to make the most of the situation. As a result we found ourselves on the 7:48 train to Venice on Saturday morning. It didn’t take long for the pan flat valley to give way to the undulating, lush countryside surrounding Montselice, an area studded with volcanic ‘plugs’ or mounds, a sight that made a refreshing change. From here the snow capped Alps loomed in to view and were visible from the islands of Venice, like reassuring arms encompassing the lagoon.
The weather was overcast and fresh, but the sun soon broke through filling the sky and canals alike with bright blue. We walked from the station to Piazza San Marco via the Rialto Bridge. The oldest of four bridges to cross the Grand Canal and by far the most spectacular. With a bridge dating back to 1181 on the same site, the current stone design was completed in 1591 after wooden predecessors either burnt down or collapsed. The two rows of shops on each side is a feature dating back to the early 15th century when a wooden structure was in place. The rents from the shops helped to pay for the maintenance of the bridge. The Rialto Bridge is one of the top tourist attractions in Venice, not that you’d have known it. I have been to Venice before, in May 2011, and don’t get me wrong I loved the place then, but it was just so, so busy. I remember being annoyed by the masses of tourists on the Rialto bridge, today there were just a handful.
Rialto Bridge from the Grand Canal
On the Rialto Bridge
A lot less people than normal
We made our way to Piazzo San Marco, via the rabbit warren of alleyways that make up Venice. Every twist and turn brought new sights to be admired or something different to be exclaimed at. These snickets and jitties were all the more magical for being so deserted; at times we really felt like we had the place to ourselves. If you’ve been to Venice before you will know that the main attractions are signposted, meaning signs for S.Marco, Accademia or Rialto can be blindly followed in the safe knowledge that you’ll end up in the right location. But trying to find a specific restaurant or hotel can be slightly harder, resulting in many dead ends, about turns and a fun exploration of the labyrinth we found ourselves in.
One alleyway suddenly opened out on to Piazza San Marco and the Basilica di San Marco appeared like a giant above us. This fantastic building showcases the dominance of the Venetian Republic as aspects from all around the world influence it’s style and design. From copies of famous bronze horses from Constantinople to intricate gold mosaics that nestle amongst a wealth of columns, romanesque statues and coloured marble, this Basilica is surely one of Europe’s greatest buildings. The immense stature of the Basilica is reflected in the vastness of the Piazza it sits in. Usually this huge square is absolutely teeming with people but today it seems empty which only magnifies the size of the space. The three story buildings that line the square house cafes, restaurants and museums and all seem to sit so much taller without the thousands of people at their feet. It’s in one of these cafes that we found ourselves! We’d decided this weekend was to be a celebration of of the new job, so our next stop (and what was to follow) was justified!
Piazza San Marco in the sunshine
A few months ago we watched a BBC programme called ‘Remarkable Places to Eat’, where, in one particular episode top chef Angela Hartnett took Fred Sirieix (from First Dates fame) to Venice, more specifically her favourite places to eat. One being Florian’s in Saint Mark’s square. An establishment akin to Venice as Harrods is to London, or Raffles to Singapore. So where else was there to go for a mid morning treat?! Cafe Florian, was originally known as ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’ or ‘Triumphant Venice’ when it opened in December 1720. But the locals began to refer to it as Florian’s after the name of the cafe’s founder Floriano Francesconi. Claiming to be one of the world’s oldest coffeehouses, Florian’s prides itself on it’s quality service in it’s timeless, elegant surroundings delivered by waiters in the smartest of liveries for which they have become well known. The food and drink is delivered on pristine china or in silver tea pots on silver trays and positioned correctly for the recipient. It wasn’t the cheapest elevenses we’ve ever had but boy was it good!
Coffee and sweet treats at Florian’s cafe in Saint Marks Square.
Back in the square and next to the Basilica is the Palazzo Ducale, or Doge’s Palace. This magnificent building is a wonderful mix of Byzantine, Gothic and Renaissance architecture and is from where the 120 Doges ruled the Venetian Republic from 697 to 1797. I am a big fan of history and architecture, so a couple of hours in this place was right up my street. Not one to turn down an audio guide we entered the palace and let the centuries of history wash over us. Highlights included the Golden staircase, the Bridge of Sighs and the most magnificent room of all, the Sala del Maggior Consiglio where the Great Council passed laws and ran the state. This awe inspiring room was the largest, unsupported room at the time of being built and the walls and ceilings are adorned with amazing pieces of art which are such a feast for the eyes. The focal point is the Doge’s throne on a raised stage, with a back drop of one of the largest oil paintings in the world, Tintoretto’s ‘Paradise’ from 1587. It’s breathtaking. The visit then left the state apartments to the contrasting prisons, the antithesis of the grandeur that’s all encompassing up until that point. These dark, dank rooms are accessed by crossing the famous Bridge of Sighs, where the few visitors, combined with the graffiti left by the convicts made for a much eerier visit than normal.
From the centre courtyard of the Doges Palace
Tintoretto’s ‘Paradise’
The Golden Staircase
The Bridge of Sighs
Back in the reassuring daylight we grabbed a piadina for lunch in the sunshine then bought a 24 hour ticket for the water bus. We put it to use straight away and took a boat up the Grand Canal back to the train station where we changed lines and went out to Murano, a smaller cluster of islands known for it’s glass. Due to the risk of fire and effects of the smoke from the many furnaces, the glass making industry was moved from Venice to Murano in 1291 and became known as Europe’s major glass producing centre at it’s height in the 15th and 16th centuries. If we thought Venice was quiet, Murano was even quieter. Our hearts went out to all the businesses who were trying to survive. We were mooching along the little canals and stumbled in to one inconspicuous little shop. Where we met Aldo, a chap no older than us, who sat at his little workbench, blow torch constantly lit, surrounded by the most gorgeous items of glass, tinkering away. We got chatting and he offered to give us a 30 minute demonstration for €30 where we could have whatever he made. So we spent the best part of an hour with Aldo, admiring how he took thin tubes of glass, turned them in to molten blobs, mixed colours, twisted, turned and blew them in to two wonderful creations for us; a beautiful wine stopper and a decorative hanging glass balloon. He had only mastered the craft 3 and a half years ago, so still had a little way to go to reach the lofty levels of a grand master but his skill and passion were incredible. He even managed to plug his phone in, select an appropriate Italian playlist, reject calls and briefly chat to his passing mate whilst manipulating the molten glass and 3,000 degree blow torch in to such beautiful objects! His shop is a treasure trove of glasses, ornaments, jewellery, goblets and decorations which have all been lovingly made by either him or his wife. A must visit if you find yourself on Murano.
A canal on Murano
Aldo’s shop
Glass balloons in the shop
Aldo creating a glass balloon for us
Dusk was falling as we motored back on the bus to the main island, walking from the train station to our hotel through the less touristy area, we saw the local Venice come to life. Small squares were crammed full of children playing, whilst parents were overflowing from little wine bars and cafes. The buzzing atmosphere was infectious so we stopped for a glass of local wine in a bar and concocted a plan for that evening. Also, on Angela Hartnett’s list were two restaurants. One called the Trattoria Al Gatto Nero on the island of Burano, a small, traditional place famous for it’s risotto, tucked amongst the colourful fisherman’s houses of the island. I’d thought ahead and booked us in for lunch the following day. The weather was set to be really good and I was looking forward to seeing the beautiful coloured houses in the sunshine. But the other restaurant Angela and Fred visited was called Osteria alle Testiere, a tiny fish restaurant tucked down an alleyway north of St Marks square where the chef Bruno concocts his daily menu after he visits the fish market each morning. It doesn’t get any fresher! Knowing this place’s reputation it was with little hope that we phoned to see if we could have a table that evening. Miraculously we managed to get in! It didn’t disappoint, we had the most delicious fish dishes we’d ever had, every mouthful was so fresh and tasty, made from simple, high quality ingredients. All washed down with a delicious bottle of light red wine. (No letters of complaint please, I know it should be white with fish!) The restaurant itself is tiny, seating about 2 dozen at max capacity but the kitchen is even smaller! There isn’t room to swing a cat! So the fact they produce such wonderful dishes is even more impressive.
Inside Osteria alle Testiere before it filled up
Sole fillets with white wine, olives and capers
Scallops with orange and leeks
Caprese Salad with prawns
We had a very pleasant stroll back to the hotel, taking in some of the landmarks in the dark. In the shadows and half light the mammoth buildings were even more imposing. We’d booked to stay at Palazzetto Pisani which is on the Grand Canal and was once a luxurious Palace owned by the prominant Pisani family and dates back to 1614. Upon entering the hotel, it’s like stepping back in time, the building is full of antique furniture, mirrors, gilded candelabras and luxurious tapestries. We’d booked the Doges suite which boasted a gold leaf headboard, expensive wall fabrics and a huge traditional mirror, tarnished from the years of use. Apparently, scenes from the film Casanova with Heath Ledger had been filmed in this particular room. It was wonderful. And best of all it was the price of a Travelodge near Heathrow, I know where I’d rather be!
St Mark’s basilica at night
St Mark’s square at night
Venice in the evening
Portico in St Mark’s square at night
Our hotel from the Grand Canal
The Doges Suite
The entrance to the hotel
The following morning we woke to the BBC news that 16 million people in Northern Italy had been put in to lock down, Venice included. So rather than risk getting stuck there we made the decision to leave that morning earlier than planned. Burano and the risotto would have to wait for another time. It was very odd reading in the media how all movement in to and out of Venice had been restricted whilst we were on a train doing just that! There were no queues at the train station, no mass panic, no checks, life was just carrying on as normal. And later that day we went to the supermarket in Ferrara where everything was as it should be, no one stock piling and no empty shelves. I’m finishing writing this on Tuesday, and as of today the government have restricted movement in to and out of all areas in Italy. So we won’t be getting many more visits crammed in after all. They’ve also closed all schools, museums, public events etc and told all cafes and restaurants to only open from 6am to 6pm and to enforce a 1 m rule between customers. But as I type this I’m sat in a cafe (I need the WiFi, and coffee!) and although it is quieter, there are still people going about their everyday business, shops are still open and people shopping. My heart really goes out to all the little businesses, like Aldo, who are so reliant on tourist trade, it’s going to be tough for them. Despite the risks I’m pleased we managed to squeeze in a trip to Venice, I’ve a feeling it was a once in a lifetime weekend!
My other love in life alongside eating, is cycling. A day that contains both activities is just perfect in my eyes. So I was absolutely ecstatic to get out in the sunshine and get the pedals turning. One afternoon last week we donned our lycra, clipped on our helmets and set off on our first Italian bike ride. We headed North out of the city, along some cycle paths until we reached the River Po. This huge river is the lifeblood of the flat land we find ourselves in, it’s a lot wider and more powerful than we realised. (So any ideas of stand up paddle boarding or scenic canoe trips were soon scuppered!) However, there is a tarmac road on the raised river bank that goes for miles and miles and miles, which for the most part is just for pedestrians and cyclists, what bliss! So we turned right and followed the river East. It was fabulous!
We weren’t the only cyclists out and about, there were a few locals using this beautiful route too. Most gave us some very strange looks though and we soon realised it was down to our wardrobe; in true British style we had seen the sunshine and the double digit temperature (just) and opted for shorts! However, everyone we came across was wrapped up from head to toe in full winter gear, including fleecy gloves; they looked like they were off to fight wasps! I don’t think we’re going to seamlessly fit in to the local cycling scene at this rate!
The scenery, although flat as a pancake, is very beautiful. On the one side there was the huge, rushing river edged with beautiful sandy beaches or rows and rows of trees waiting to spring in to life. Then the other side was a patchwork of fields, some obviously being tended to with care, others in their natural state but all dotted with ramshackle barns and houses. Every so often a cluster of buildings gathered round a beautiful church tower, poking it’s head through the rooftops would mark the presence of a sleepy little village.
The cycling was pretty easy going too. Back in January, soon after I finished treatment, the wonderful ladies at the Hospital Well Being centre had kindly put together a training plan for me, to ease me back in to a fitness routine. This includes wearing a heart rate monitor and keeping my heart rate in certain zones for the next 12 weeks. So we were happily cycling along when I look down at my Garmin (handlebar computer) and discover we’re travelling along at 19 mph with a very low heart rate. Hang on, something’s not right here…..
When the river soon turned North for a brief time and we nearly got side swiped by the gale force wind we realised the feeling of ease was down to the belting tail wind we had! By this point we were 15 miles down river. Anyone who cycles knows how disheartening, horrendous and soul destroying a strong headwind can be! Even if I sheltered behind Mr BND I wasn’t confident of making it home without doing myself in for the next week! So praise the lord for Italy’s wonderful train service! Even these remote little villages have stations with excellent services and we didn’t have to wait long for the next train. In true cyclist style, we even managed to fit in a cafe stop before our change of transport. So it wasn’t quite the cycling trip we had planned but at least we knew not to trust that weather app anymore!
Ferrara is known as ‘citta della biciclette’ or city of bicycles. (I know, you couldn’t pick a more perfect place for me!) Everyone cycles everywhere, people of all ages from the students of the university to the old ladies going to the market for their shopping. Bikes are king here, one way systems and give ways just don’t seem to apply for someone on two wheels. Our flat is within the city walls, so not a particularly long walk in to town but to fully explore the city and in an attempt to embrace the Ferrarese lifestyle we came to the conclusion that the only option available to us was to buy a new bike! I say new…they’re new to us. I’m sure they would have been new at some point, perhaps back before the first World War! But due to the popularity of the bicycle here, bike theft is apparently quite high, so the beautiful city shopper with leather panniers and a wicker basket that I envisioned myself on is not the best idea. Instead we went to see Filippo, who runs a a bike shop on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. It’s not quite the kind of bike shop we have back at home. His stock of bikes live outside on a nearby bike rack and the tiny space is filled with cycling paraphernalia that wouldn’t look amiss in a transport museum! This was our guy!
A selection of bikes from around Ferrara.
We both chose a bike each. In my case my excitement got the better of me and I probably (no, definitely) should have tested it a bit more thoroughly. A realisation that struck later that day when we were taking them out for their first spin and I discovered it was stuck in an impossibly hard gear, the seat far too low, the chain kept coming off and the only way to slow down was by using the bottom of my shoe on the ground! Oops. So back to Filippo we went and before long it was like a different bike! We had haggled a bit as we were buying two and for less than the cost of a new pair of cycling socks we were the proud owners of a couple of old bangers. Our bike collection out here is from the sublime to the ridiculous! These definitely wouldn’t be effected by a strong wind that’s for sure.
Seeing as I personify most things and all my other bikes have got names it seemed only right to do the same to the new addition. So I’ve called him Giuseppe! I can already tell we’re going to have some great adventures together.
What is a ‘Foodie’? Someone who is particular about food and will only eat the finest things from the best places? Or someone who just loves food? Who eats for the simple joy it brings. Someone who lives to eat.
If it’s the latter then I’m a definite foodie! As my friends will testify, I love food. So do they actually, which is why we’re friends! If you’re not really that bothered about food then this particular post is not for you…keep on scrolling.
One of the worst things about Cancer treatment was having to avoid certain foods and not being able to fully enjoy the taste due to the chemotherapy playing havoc with your taste buds. Good job I now live in Italy to make up for it!
Not just any part of Italy though, we’re in the gastronomic region of the country. Ferrara is in the Po valley, a flat agricultural area sandwiched between the Alps to the North, the Apennines to the South and the Adriatic Sea to the East. For those that are familiar with the Lincolnshire Fens, there are definite resemblances! But the landscape is dotted with ancient little villages and towns, bathed in sunlight or shrouded in fog making it look either beautiful or mystical. Not something you get in Wainfleet or Kirton! (If you’re not aware of those places keep it that way!)
So to say I was excited about the food is an understatement. The fact that I’ve put on a stone and a half during cancer treatment isn’t going to stop me tucking in! I’ll just have to try and move a bit more. Well that’s how I’m justifying it to myself anyway!
I’ve been here only a week so far and I already feel like I’ve eaten and drank so many amazing things! So this is what I’ve learnt in the last few days, from one foodie to another I feel the need to share it with you.
The highlight of the last week has been the food tour we did in Bologna. Bologna is known by three nicknames, one of which translates to ‘the fat.’ A name deservedly earned as this city has so many gastronomic delights to offer. We met Paolo, our guide, at the Mercato delle Erbe, a fresh produce market frequented by locals. As well as the fresh fruit and vegetable stalls there were fishmongers (where you can choose a piece of fish and they’ll cook it in the restaurant next door), wine sellers, butchers and many other local suppliers. All of which were surrounded by little on-the-go restaurants and kiosks which was where our first stop was. The place is called Sfarina and specialises in piadinas. If you’ve not had one before it’s a wonderful mix of a tortilla wrap and panini. The one we had contained 18 month aged prosciutto di Parma, squacquerone di Romagna (a type of soft cheese) and rocket. It was delicious! We didn’t have far to go to our next stop which was just a few doors up and specialised in tortellini. One of Bologna’s signature dishes is tortelloni and tortellini. The latter is a much smaller version of the former. So tortelloni is the type you see in the fresh pasta aisle in the supermarkets back home, but here they also do a smaller version. This is normally served in broth rather than a sauce or in some cases fried. That was our next taste sensation. Fried tortellini drizzled with a creamy parmesan sauce, it was divine!
After tasting some fresh fruit from the colourful market stalls we left the market and Paolo showed us a tiny little shop tucked down the alleyway behind. It’s called Le Sfogline and all they do is make fresh pasta. It’s all handmade by ladies who have mastered the skill over the years, due to it being quite demanding the younger generation aren’t interested so it’s up to the matriarchs to produce this wonderful local delicacy which is said to originally have been created to represent the naval of Venus. Thus landing these wonderful ladies with the title of ‘Tortellini Queens.’ They make approximately 18,000 tortellini a day (!) all by hand (even grinding the pork for the filling), using the highest quality ingredients. That’s why there’s a queue out the door!
We were then taken on a little stroll across the Piazza Maggiore and told some fascinating facts about Bologna and it’s architecture. One of which was the whispering walls of Palazzo Podesta. If you head under the four cornered archway under the palace’s large tower, stand in one corner facing the wall, send your friend to the diagonal corner and start talking, you will hear each other clear as day over the hustle and bustle of the city. It’s amazing! Legend has it, it allowed the lepers to confess their sins. Quite apt with the Corona virus doing the rounds! (Talking of which, I’ve had quite a few messages asking if I’m ok. All is fine! Apart from the schools being closed and the odd tourist attraction there’s no sign that anything is amiss here! Bologna was bustling with locals as normal so they’re obviously not too bothered about it.)
Our next stops were down the narrow Via Peschierie Vecchie and Via Drapperie right in the heart of the city. Here we went to a couple of delis to buy some mortadella (a local salami made from finely ground pork speckled with cubes of fat), parmigiano reggiano (the locally produced cheese known to us untrained Brits as parmesan) and some crescenta bread (a local bread eaten with cuts of meats and cheeses made using pork fat…..yep there’s a theme developing here!) We then took it all to Osteria del Sole, an unassuming, tucked away wine bar which only sells wine and beer. The deal is you take your own meats, breads and cheeses buy some local vino rosso frizzante (fizzy red wine or lumbrusco as it’s also known) and grab a spare table if there is one! It was absolutely rammed with locals enjoying their Saturday lunchtime. The walls are adorned with a collection of random memorabilia which has obviously been added to over the years since it began in 1465! Making it the oldest bar in Bologna. What a cool place!
After polishing off the wine and devouring the picnic we just about had room for something sweet and Paolo took us down Via Caprarie to a wonderful wood panelled shop called Paolo Atti e Figli, where they sold the inevitable fresh pasta, breads and meats but also mouth watering sweet treats. We sampled some Torta degli Addobbi, which is an unctuous rice cake dating back to the 1700’s and is made from aborio rice, eggs, sugar, almonds and lemon. It was so good I forgot to take a photo! Oh dear, I’ll just have to go back!
The final stop was a cafe bar where the delicious culinary tour was topped off with a wonderful espresso. No discerning Italian has a milky coffee after lunch so it’s espressos all the way.
We definitely learnt a lot, ate a lot and really thoroughly enjoyed it. So if you’re ever in Bologna or fancy a trip, look up Paolo on ‘With Locals’, you won’t be disappointed…….now what’s for lunch, writing this has made me peckish!
Half an hour South of Ferrara is Bologna. Nestled on the edge of the valley it marks the start of the rolling hills to the South. It has the world’s oldest University, which dates back to 1088, and has been a significant settlement due to it’s position on two important roman roads that intersect the city. Today it’s known as the food capital of Italy. So where better to spend our first weekend?!
We left Ferrara at lunchtime on Friday below a beautiful blue sky without a single cloud in sight. Once on the autostrade (Italian motorway) the snow capped Apennine mountains soon came in to view and it didn’t take us long to reach the city. We were in our trusted camper van Murphy and had looked up places to park overnight on an app called Park4Night. It didn’t disappoint. We found a fantastic location where we could park for free with a lovely view over the city. A short walk later and we were amongst the hustle and bustle of Bologna. After sleepy Ferrara it was an assault on the senses. It took much more concentration to avoid the cars and mopeds whizzing up and down the narrow cobbled streets than dodging the odd Octogenarian on a rickety bicycle in Ferrara! Added to which your eyes were continuously being drawn up to admire the wonderful architecture and porticoes, all of which are wonderful shades of red in colour. The city boasts approximately 40km of porticoes, which are waiting for their UNESCO world heritage status to be approved. Due to the expanding population in 1100 as a result of the increasing number of students to the city, there was a lack of space within the city walls; so porticoes were built on to the sides of most buildings to increase living space. It also meant there were sheltered walkways all around the city to protect from the elements.
As it was such a beautiful day we decided to walk along the Portico di San Luca, an uninterrupted covered walkway that measures 3.8km in length and takes you from Porta Saragozza on the edge of the ancient city centre up to the Basilica di San Luca sat up on the hillside overlooking the city. The first stretch is lined with cafes, bars and shops and then it starts to climb up the hill! Having done very little exercise for the last year it was quite demanding but definitely worth it! The engineering behind it is incredible! In 1433 an image of the Madonna with Child was brought down from the hermitage on the top of the hill to the city in the hope that the rains that had fallen non stop for months would cease. As soon as the procession reached the gates to the city walls the rain did indeed stop. So every year since, the Madonna is brought down to the city in May to the central square. It was for this reason that the portico was built, to protect the annual procession. Construction began in 1655 and took 40 years to build. Each arch is numbered as you walk up the portico and there are 666 to symbolise the Madonna defeating the devil. It was also of particular interest for us as the 2019 Giro d’Italia (Italy’s version of the Tour de France) held it’s first stage on the ascent to the Basilica. The names of the riders were still visible on the road and watching the odd cyclist battle the huge gradient was a good source of entertainment as we walked up. Perhaps one day I’ll make it up there on two wheels!
We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the streets of Bologna, soaking up the hustle and bustle of the busy university town. If you dive down an alleyway off the main square you’ll find yourself in one of the best streets in Bologna, Via Pescherie Vecchie. There’s a vast array of bars, restaurants, cafes, market stalls and delis all spilling out in to this narrow little street. Taking it’s name from old fish markets you can easily while away the hours eating, drinking, people watching and eating some more down this street. (See my post called Food Glorious Food.)
The evening was spent in Signorvino overlooking Piazza Maggiore sipping wine and sharing a ‘tagliere’ or cutting board filled with local meats, cheeses and breads. (The vegetarianism that I embarked on last Summer has gone out the window……When in Rome and all that!)
After quite a noisy night (might have to rethink sleeping in the van in cities!) we were treated to a fabulous dawn over Bologna and after the obligatory coffee at the nearest bar we meandered to the top of the hill we were parked on and enjoyed the view of Bologna. The rest of the morning was spent walking around, drinking coffee in cute little cafes, poking our heads in unassuming churches (and always being taken aback by the ornate interiors) and working up an appetite until 11.30 when we met up with Paolo, a local guide for a food tour my wonderful, food-loving uni friends gave me as a leaving present. It was three hours of heaven! Tasting some gastronomical delights and learning about Bolognese food and history. I highly recommend Paolo as a guide so if you’re ever in Bologna look him up through the ‘WithLocals’ app.
I think it’s always a good sign if a destination leaves you feeling you’ve only scratched the surface and want more time to delve in to the city and really get to know the place better. So it was a perfect place to spend our first weekend and it’s a good job we’re only half an hour down the road!
We made it! I’m currently sat outside our local bar (which I’ve already decided is one of my favourite) in the sunshine with a vino rosso. I can’t begin to convey how good it is to be here. There’s been so many times in the past year where I didn’t want to let myself believe it could happen. If I got my hopes up too much, got too carried away with the planning of it, just for it to be pulled from underneath me then I’d have been devastated. So it wasn’t until we crossed the border in to Italy that I allowed myself to believe it was finally happening.
We left home last Friday, today is Thursday and already it feels like so much has happened. It was looking like the journey might be doomed from the start and reaching our destination seemed an impossible task! I was driving the van (our VW Transporter called Murphy) round the M25 to the Dartford crossing when I said to Mr BND how hard it was to know whether the wind was pulling the steering wheel or the wheels were effected. He said, ‘Trust me, it’s the wind.’ As we took the next exit we discovered a flat tyre! The travel gods were working in our favour after that though as we crawled to a Kwik-Fit only 4 minutes away, where the chap had us back on the road within half an hour! Amazing!
That night we spent a very pleasant evening in Hearne Bay staying with family, which meant a short hop across to Folkstone for the Channel Tunnel the following morning. It was looking too good to be true when we were able to catch an earlier train and literally just drove straight on! We’ve queued for hours before!
We soon made good progress through France in to Belgium, across Belgium in to Germany where we stayed the night with friends of my Auntie. An absolutely lovely evening where we were fed and watered exceedingly well.
The next day we were headed for the mountains! The drive soon turned exceptionally picturesque as the windscreen was filled with views of the snow covered Alps. A night in Innsbruck was a little holiday in itself where we enjoyed walking round and taking in the sights; the fact that we ended up in an Italian restaurant for dinner cemented the country of destination for us!
The next day we left a wet and foggy Austria behind as we descended from the Brenner Pass in to the sun and blue skies of Italy. The landscape was a beautiful juxtaposition of old towns and squares mixed with harsh industrial buildings and factories all encompassed by the magnificent backdrop of the Dolomites. We were nearly there! The final spanner in the works came as we heard that morning about outbreaks of the Corona Virus in Northern Italy. Upon learning that places were in lock down we were concerned it would effect the journey. But luckily there was absolutely no sign of anything being amiss as we made our way South.
A couple of hours later we parked up in our new home town and as we were too early for the meet and greet we headed straight to the centre for a spot of lunch and a glass of the local fizzy red wine.
So after 6 countries, 1,147 miles, 2 podcasts and plenty of inane chat we had finally arrived. I don’t think there were two happier people in the world right at that moment!
Welcome to my first blog post. Thanks for sticking with it to this point! I’m currently struggling to get to sleep due to the amount of stuff going through my head. In 17 days Mr BND and I are moving to Italy. It’s all starting to seem very real. Much more real than when we started talking about the possibility of it months ago; much more real than when his job was confirmed and much more real than when we bought the recent purchase of a camper van, to maximise our adventure possibilities.
It’s been a whirlwind of a year. Without boring (or depressing) you too much a lot has changed. Our world was thrown in to turmoil in April when I was diagnosed with Breast Cancer, treatment consisted of chemotherapy, surgery and then finished in January with radiotherapy. The good news finally came that I was cancer free one morning at the end of October. However that afternoon we had to say goodbye to our gorgeous little dog Charlie. He’d also had a tumour and it all finally got a bit too much for him. He’d done his job of keeping me company through the bad times so it was time to go. The coincidence that both of us had tumours far too young (him 5, me 31) hasn’t escaped me!
Until July, my Mum and I ran a business together, a lovely little shop in Stamford, Lincolnshire. Which we’d decided to close, partly because of Mum retiring, partly the cancer and partly the imminent move to Italy. So it was all change in 2019!
I’ve always quite liked writing and now seems a good opportunity to give it a go. Even if it is just my Mum reading it back home! I don’t particularly like the word ‘blog’, I think I prefer journal or adventure writing. Is that a bit weird? Whatever this is though I want to write my experiences, my thoughts, my favourite foods to eat, the best wine I’ve drunk, the exciting places we visit and things we see. If it inspires, interests, helps you in some way, even better. I’d like to keep a focus on independent, family run businesses. Whether they’re restaurants, cafes, outdoor adventure companies or places to stay. I feel passionately that these businesses need our support. They won’t be there forever unless we help them.
I’d also love to hear from you too! If you’ve got any recommendations for must-do’s in Italy then please get in touch, we’ll be based in Ferrara.
Perhaps you’ve recently been diagnosed with cancer and just want to speak to someone who’s been there, then please reach out, I’m happy to talk about it.
So that’s it for now. Only 17 days to go. Good job there’s not too much to do….like start to pack, finish decorating the house, throw a party for 120 of our family and friends! What have we let ourselves in for?!
Brand New Day 